Engraming | Sport & recreation
Engraming
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25.01.2022 (TNP) 31/08 Up on my wall again today, an impromptu session that turned out to be a good one - Mini 1, 30 sec rest, Mini 3, 1 min rest, Minis 2+4 once ea conseq, 2 min rest, 12-move circuit R, 1 min rest, 12-move circuit L, 2 min rest, 12-move circuit L (footslip on final move), 1 min rest, 12-move circuit R, 2 min rest, Mini 4, 30 sec rest, Mini 2, 1 min rest, Minis 3+1 once ea conseq! Lots of moves, feeling stronger as the days get longer (except today was wet as hell, henc...e on the wall again and not outside somewhere), getting back into the groove (-ish...) -nice way to finish off August! Footers still a tad slippery, got holes n me toes, but it's a poor man who blames his tools: can't/won't blame the footslip on anything other than a momentary lapse of attention, not pouring enough weight nor applying the right amount of pressure for the right amount of time...That's one of the traits of bouldering that draws me in, keeps me coming back, even to keep doing the same sequences over and over again - there is no room for inattention when you're defying gravity! Love the focus, and the calmness that can come from being fully present to the myriad subtleties, nuances, shifts of weight, and 'push me/pull me's involved - 'tis a meditation in and of itself! "Ah, Grasshopper, this one for you: Before enlightenment, bouldering. After enlightenment, bouldering! 'Wax on, wax off' is for pussies - now you learn new truth, the better truth, the whole truth, and nothing but the truth: wax on, AND STAY ON! Enough for today."
24.01.2022 (Backdated from Thursday 24/09) - (TNP) 26/09 Spent a good part of Thursday out at Whitewater Creek hauling my fat ass up three new sitstarts and a couple of easy stand start ups courtesy of y famous friend man-on-the-ground Mr Paul Pritchard. Flashed the first one (China Hack V0), R heel hook and up she goes, but then spent way too long on the second finding the right sequence, it proving to be trickier than it appeared: total trust in the right heel hook required to get est...ablished and be able to reach up with and find ac secure grip with the right hand, then it’s all over bar the shouting - neat little number, OMG I’m Flying! -*V1/2 (SDS). Left of it a similar-looking problem, but it required an entirely different style of climbing, more ‘push-me’ than ‘pull-me’ once off the ground, pressing down to allow the interplay of the limbs as opposed to the standard-type sequence of ‘pull-down-on-this-hold-and-shift-your-weight-to-one-side-to-enable-the-other-foot-to-be-freed’ kind of thing. Called it It’s A Rap V0 (SDS) because one of the ways I had to pull with and then invert and push down on one of my hands was reminiscent of rap dancing. - [ ] Next I strung a rope on a problem for Paul that he gave an almighty go at (watching him try deadpointing a move over a slight bulge with only one hand and basically one good foot nothing short of fucking amazing, particularly catching it solid after coming off just before and ending up on the ground as the rope pulled tight on stretch - RESPECT PLUS. Mr Pritchard!) but had to give away as it was too steep for him, so he kindly offered it (and it’s left compatriot) to me to send as the 99th and 100th boulder problems at Whitewater Creek to date... Being out there bouldering again and seeing the umpteen other potential lines literally all over the place was brilliant, being out there with Paul the icing on the cake! Anyone who wants inspiration to keep on trying stuff despite seemingly insurmountable setbacks need only spend an hour or so in his company! Thanks for the day, the inspiration, and the new lines, Mr Paul! 24/09 bldr: Whitewater Creek, five FFAs: China Hack V0 (SDS), OMG I’m Flying! *V1/2 (SDS), It’s A Rap V0/1 (SDS), Sugar Glider 99 V0/1 (stand), One Hundredth Monkey V0/1 (stand) Thursday’s haul: 5 new problems done
24.01.2022 (TP) 3/08/20 Ah, the curse of the need for instant gratification... Weather cooler, rain about, dampness in the air, meant that when I walked up the back passed my wall and felt the holds the friction was good - who am I to doubt the serendipity!?! Quickly chucked my dilapidated 'training shoes' on, first cab of the rank Mini 1 (SDS) straight into Mini 3 (23 moves all up), 1 min rest, Mini 2 (SDS) straight into Mini 4, looking flash but aaargh, came off heading back on the fi...nal bit (move 20/21 of 25) - NOOOOO!?! Another 60 sec rest, started up the 12-move circuit but only got, like, two or three moves in before t'was not to be - damn you, Shakespeare! Had to finish on some sort of win - it had "to be", if you know what I mean - so quickly sent Minis 1 and 2 (stand) with only a quick shake in between them - phew, was obviously flash pumped but got them done ok! (Now, what was the question, again?) Whole misguided adventure took less than 10 min, enough to send me from heaven to hell and back again in regards the emotional roller coaster of result dependant succeed/fail/succeed, but nah, shook it off like water from a duck's back straight after and walked away smiling, no worse for the wear. Next time I'll give the same start a go (Minis 1(SDS)-3, then 2(SDS)-4... Gotta love the process!
21.01.2022 (TNP) 12/09 Short walk up on the mtn with m’lady and Joshua, felt again de berg ruft, the mountain calling me back - the stone beings scattered about its base are the ones doing the calling, inviting me to again dance amongst/on them... Before that I’d had a quick zip up and down the Bachar ladder once (ea R/L, inversion version, conseq), just to prove to myself I still can. Also realised I hadn’t recorded my last home wall sess, from the 7th - woops, my bad, especially consi...dering I’d upped the ante a wee tad: not much in the scheme of things, but I started off with doing Minis 1+3+1, 1 min rest, then Minis 2+4+2! Each set 28 moves each! Full session /09 Minis 1+3+1 conseq, 1 min rest, Minis 2+4+2, 2 min rest, 12-move circuit once ea R/L conseq, 2 min rest, 12-move circuit once ea L/R - fail moves 21/22; 2 min rest, Mini 1 twice conseq, 1 min rest, Mini 2 twice conseq; 12/09 BL up/down R/L once ea conseq. Starting to feel strong again, hearing the call again, all pointing to an outdoor session ASAP!
15.01.2022 (TNP) 29/07/20 Another ‘first time in ages’: just did Johnathon Horts’s 4 min plank core workout, in what might be a ‘fool’s errand’ attempt at trimming off some of my post-Covid lack of commitment to training belly - having a beer straight after is allowed, isn’t it? Not to worry, though, as I can feel a real bouldering session coming sooner rather than later - exactly where and when remains to be seen, but it’s definitely getting close! (Got super inspired talking with Ali on the 17th, now I just have to get my old carcass to catch up with my enthusiasm!)
12.01.2022 (TNP) 27/08 Was inspired to have a quick session on my homewall again after talking with a climbing mate who did his ankle in skateboarding a few days ago - I regaled him with injury recovery advise, how to get through the next six weeks (It’s all training, referring to turning getting around on crutches and physically managing an injury into a 24/7 attention to detail in regards movement training) - actually, that’s only partially true. In reality I just laughed at/with hi...m, but did mention the ‘it’s all training’ bit, and talking with him did lead to me getting up on my wall... It wasn’t his first and it probably won’t be his last, and he’s young enough to still bounce back (gone are those days for some of us...). Session: Minis 3+1 once ea conseq, 1 min rest, Minis 2+4 once ea conseq, 1 min rest, 12-move circuit once ea R/L conseq (failed final move), I min rest, Mini 1 twice conseq, 1 min rest, Mini 2 twice conseq. Actually felt like a real climber again!
11.01.2022 (TNP) 2/08 And the lessons in not being attached to the outcome continue: up on my wall again today, Minis 1 & 2 from sit starts (10 sec rest in between), took a minute to shake out, remembering the flash pump failures from last time, Minis 3 & 4 from stand starts (10 sec rest in between) - looking and feeling good. Another minutes rest, started off on the 12-move circuit, got through to the final moves but, once again, slippery footer, hole in shoe in exactly the wrong spot..., over gripping as a result, too rushed = lack of composure, OFF! Never quite recovered, had a few more on again/off again attempts at this and that, finished off with doing Mini 1 (SDS), 10 sec rest, Mini 2 (SDS), 1 min rest, then both each again (stand starts, 10 sec rests in between), smashing it out till the end, forearms thickening with lactic acid, looking and feeling like bloody Popeye's, working my right toes like crazy determined not to foot slip - success! Who'd've thought so much could happen in such a short time (less than half hr)!?! Could've got the shits due to my lack lustre performance, but, nah - what's the point? Quick change in perception and lo: got a boulder session in, better than not getting a session in, it's all part of the mix and all roads lead to Rome - even if it's sometimes two steps forwards, one step backwards, I'm still stepping! And Rome wasn't built in a day, that's for sure! Keeping the focus on the joy of bouldering and the fact that I even still can boulder and not being hung up on the outcome - not being only 'results focussed' - is one way of keeping a smile on me dial! Are the best climbers the ones who send the hardest problems, or the ones who have the most fun?
11.01.2022 (TNP) 07/08/20 Engraming - the science of movement was dragged out of the cupboard on Wednesday and had its dust and mothballs shaken off - spent a couple of hrs talking showing doing bits and pieces of some of it to a new friend, either regaling him with my multifaceted experiential posture and movement awareness or boring him to tears (he didn’t cry, so might just have been the former...). Was great to have an interested listener, and for me to be able to impart/share some... of my knowledge - it must’ve inspired me, because on the way out I showed him my ‘inversion version’ Bachar ladder sequence (once ea up/down R/L conseq), and did it a second time only about 2 or so minutes later! And the next day (yesterday) did it again - ie, et al twice through, albeit with a half hr between goes... Results focused or not, damn it feels good when I can nail it! See more
10.01.2022 (TNP) 22/09 Well, the stone people out there must’ve heard my call, they contacted me via my famous mate, Paul - he texted me saying he’s cleaned up a few sitstarts for me out at Whitewater Creek! Thursday looks like the go this week, will see if I can drag this dilapidated old carcass off the ground and up some real rock! Will get another wall sess in before then as prep - otherwise it’s just pray for ok weather and good ol’ kinaesthetic memory on the day!(note to self: playing a 3hr game of soccer last Sat (parents vs kids - we took it 8-7, FA (Fossils vs Adolescents) not the smartest thing to do with my bevy of injuries)
10.01.2022 (TNP) 31/07 Note to self: doing the JH 4-min plank/core workout with a belly full of Indian curry, a beer, a glass of red, and a coffee IS NOT A GOOD IDEA :(
10.01.2022 TNP) 21/08 Gotta love freebies (once a dirtbag climber, always a dirtbag climber - most of the wires and even a couple of cans on my rack in my trad years was made up of bits and pieces I’d ‘appropriated’ from left-behinds, and I still use my old Clog ascenders I picked up for nix at Recycled Recreation years ago for self-belaying ..) - I’m the trolleys outside the tip shop, check out the score of the week! The blurb on the back reads The account of the assault on Meru is a... magnificent piece of descriptive writing... Mr Masters writes from such a wonderfully rich experience of life that he could not be dull or insignificant if he tried. Cannae wait! (It is a work of fiction, but who cares - it’s still about climbing (among other stuff)!) Saw the pic on the cover, thought it’s been sooo long since I climbed anything I may as well do it vicariously! Then I realized I’d forgotten to write up my last wall session from the 12th - so, here it is, plus the other scant bits and pieces of training I’ve done since then: 12/08 4 min JH plank core; 13/08 Mini 1. 1 min rest, Min 3, 1 min rest, Mini 2, 1 min rest, Mini 4, And 5 min rest; 12-move circuit once ea R/L conseq (not quite on last move)( 2 min rest, 12- move circuit R once, 1 min rest, 12-move circuit once L fail final move); 2 min rest Mini 4 - two attempts, both fail part way thru; 2 min rest, Mini 3 - two attempts, both fail part way thru; 2 min rest, Mini 2 twice conseq, 2,min rest; Mini 1 twice conseq; 5 min plank; 30 min sonw;18/08 30min sonw, 5 min plank, 50 pushups; 20/08 50 wide arm pushups + 5 min plank... Not much in the scheme of things, but at least it’s something!
09.01.2022 - pointing out alternate start option.
08.01.2022 That was then, this is now (no hair up there = one easy to mark noggin!):
06.01.2022 Numbers 99 and 100: Sugar Glider 99 V0/1 (stand), One Hundredth Monkey V0/1 (stand).
06.01.2022 Pic one: helmet after mtb stack. Pic two: my ‘racing stripes’ (helmet lacerations)
02.01.2022 (TNP) 12/11 Yesterday’s adventure - not sent yet, but almost! SDS on a small boulder in the jumble of rocks just behind the further end of the Symbiosis Boulder (lying down start possible, will add a move and probably a grade), whole thing looked like one pull and it’s over but no, because of its shape/configuration the weight is forced onto the right hand, the minimal footholds making it tricky to release and get the right foot up on same for final rock-over... It’ll go asap... Working title ‘Ugly Bug Ball’, *V2/3ish...
02.01.2022 (TNP) 24/09 Quick sess on the wall as prep for tomorrow (fingers crossed for better weather than today...), just checking I could still cut the mustard in regards moving over stone (wall) - yep, still happening! Session was brief but still a decent ‘mini workout’: 23/09 homewall: Mini 1 (SDS) twice conseq, 1 min rest, Mini 3, 1 min rest, Mini 4, 1 min rest, Mini 2 (SDS) twice conseq. Later was showing someone the video from when I did my ankle (grossed myself out seeing it ag...ain!) and the raw footage of the subsequent FFA of The Prow (V4/5, stand) - what a way to reawaken my bouldering enthusiasm! Gotta keep the faith for clear skies tomorrow, or at least no rain, so I can check out these SDSs Mr Paul has lined up for me... Next post will tell all!
01.01.2022 just after FFA of Ugly Bug Ball V2 (SDS) (TNP) 19/11/20 Yesterday saw a return to Symbiosis Boulder area after a trip up there on the 11th where after not being able to pull the moves on The Duttinator Extension or the 'crux' of Spider Pig (wtf!?!) and playing around on the base of the V3 (Stand) trying yet again to work out a sit start for it (loooong term project!) I started working a new boulder just passed Mini Cave Rave - sussed the moves but didn't send it then, was bus...ting a gut to get back to it... Third go on it went, FFA Ugly Bug Ball V2 (SDS), then I had a look-see at an alternate (harder) start to it on the o/hung bulgy start at its right hand end - took a while but finally worked out the moves to get me back up onto the previous problem, though the send is yet to come... All in all a grand day out, made all the better having Ali ring me in the morning to catch up! Any vestiges of soreness etc in my right upper back were well and truly put to the test - it's a pumpy few moves onto slopers before pulling up onto the latter half of Ugly Bug Ball... Deep inhalations and sneezing still make me cringe, but otherwise it's healed back there... Looking forward to getting back up there asasp!
