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Gippsland Dog Training

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25.01.2022 https://www.facebook.com/197369399273/posts/10159479304334274/?d=n

24.01.2022 Our beautiful golden retriever puppies are nearly 8wks old. They’ve had some sickness and their mum our Tess has had a few infections, and Tess’ mum Lilly has had ear surgery. It’s been a crazy month but all is improving now. Look at these gorgeous pups. And all are sold.

23.01.2022 We spend lots of time snuggling our pups one on one so they get used to touch & have started calming ques like sssh & Quietly,

22.01.2022 My training friend of Paw Behaviour, Jennifer Wilcox has written: What's not balanced about "balanced" dog training? A lot. Whenever there is a dog attack, we see trainers that use aversive methods blame a supposed increase in dog attacks on training methods that don't use fear or force. The fact is aggressive training methods that cause fear increases aggression in dogs. Good trainers use positive reinforcement methods skilfully & have no need to cause physical pain or fea...r. Yes, we use punishment, usually in the form of removing what the animal wants, ie the opportunity for a walk if the dog is jumping up to have the lead put on. Trainers who are not skilled, always seem to fall back on punishment. The claim that using punishment + positive reinforcement works always reminds me of living in an abusive relationship. No fun living with someone who loves you one minute & chokes you the next! If all "balanced" trainers were given another species to train, I doubt they'd make any progress. It's only dogs that suffer so unfairly in their desire to live with & co-operate with humans. This article covers all the reasons why balanced is anything but!

22.01.2022 These are wonderful products designed & made in the Yarra ranges. https://www.blackdog.net.au/

22.01.2022 Dublin Veterinary Hospital This is the second dog in the last two weeks that we’ve had come in to our hospital with this type of bone stuck around it’s mandible.... Separate companies but the EXACT same design. Please do NOT buy this type of bone for your pup! It’s not worth the risk. Luckily for this patient, our technician was able to wiggle it free but our previous patient was under general anesthesia for nearly a half hour while we went through every tool in our arsenal to saw through both sides of the bone safely. Both dogs are lucky that they did not end up with lacerations or broken teeth ****The second set of pictures is another common culprit that, when lodged over teeth, nearly always requires sedation to saw it into two parts.One of my dogs managed to get one over his bottom teeth last fall. It was awful; my Vet had to sedate him and saw it off! $90 later I came home and tossed all of the others out in the trash. P.S. It's amazing, if you read some of the comments, how many dogs have been traumatized with these very same bones and chew toys!! Post via https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=594134468

22.01.2022 A lovely drive to Foster today to see Shiobhan. What a beautiful young dog with a lot of energy needing to be redirected.

21.01.2022 Taking our Lilly to Lavalla to help me with a careers talk on Animal welfare/careers. Post visit: of course Lilly was the star!!

21.01.2022 This Flow Chart explains how to deal with ALL the most common dog behavior problems. We explain how to use it in our 2nd Video Training, which is only available... for a few more days. You can download this Flow Chart, plus 10+ additional printable resources from the NEW Behavior Problems Crash Course, which is only available as part of a special limited-time offer... Click here to check it out: https://dunbartraining.com/dbt2-c - Jamie See more

21.01.2022 Worth remembering

18.01.2022 Beautiful play of Tess with her pups

17.01.2022 Environment enrichment food toys are about slow eating, brain stimulation & work. Not just about eating.

16.01.2022 This is so important for the correct growth of our dogs legs particularly. https://www.dailydogdiscoveries.com/puppy-growth-plates/

15.01.2022 Hi, delivered by caesarean after 15hrs from onset of restlessness & lots of huffing and puffing on Tuesday to Tess (our profile dog). Ultrasound showed some weaker heartbeats so decided on Caesar. 10! 5 of each sex! All very healthy & active. Xx

14.01.2022 https://www.facebook.com/182526639595/posts/10158081507699596/?vh=e&d=n

12.01.2022 Please be careful when buying a puppy. Yes puppy farms are real. Most have moved from Victoria to NSW (a lot just over the border).

12.01.2022 Please consider this when chosing a trainer!!

12.01.2022 FEEDING BONES For some people, the thought of feeding bones to their dog scares them, usually because of the risks associated with their dog guzzling th...e bone resulting in choking, obstructions etc. There is a risk with feeding bones ... and well everything really. It’s about weighing up the pros/cons, doing research, and taking the time to navigate it with your dog. A MASSIVE pro is that bones are FANTASTIC for oral health. They are species appropriate and biologically what our dogs and cats were designed to eat! What you need to consider is the type of bones you are providing for YOUR INDIVIDUAL dog. CHOOSING THE RIGHT BONE If you are not sure which size of bone to get for your dog, choose a larger size first. As a guide only, a bone that is the size of your dog’s head (width ways) is a good start and once you know what kind of a bone chewer your dog is you can head to smaller sizes. First time bone chewers such as puppies NEED TO BE TAUGHT how to eat a bone. Choose a stick shaped bone such as a turkey neck, or beef ribs. Hold one end of the bone and let your dog chew on the other and pull away if it seems like your dog will try to swallow the whole thing. Use your reinforcement markers such as YES or GOOD GIRL/BOY to communicate with your dog when they a showing behaviours you like such as chewing. Through this process, much like a mother wolf might, you teach your dog how to patiently enjoy a bone. BONES TO AVOID Weight bearing bones or large recreational bones such as marrow bones. They have the possibility of cracking or wearing down your dog’s teeth. Any cooked bones. They become fragile and splinter. SUPERVISION IS A MUST!! Bones should NOT be left with your dog on their own. You can use enrichment toys like Kongs for that. ALWAYS supervise your dog eating a bone. SEPARATE DOGS WHEN FEEDING BONES. As a trainer, this is something I tell everyone! Why? Bones are super high value, any kind of spacial pressure placed on the dog may increase the speed in which he eats resulting in gulping. Use crates or separate in different areas. For bone ideas visit this group: http://www.facebook.com/groups/rawandfresh/ Photo by Primal Pooch

12.01.2022 This is a very good response to the tragic dog attack death yesterday! This is written by a key Force free Dog Trainer & Trainer of Dog Trainers. Within my world of Dog Training Kaye is an admired leader in Australia.

12.01.2022 Feeding from a food bowl is one of the worst things that most owners do to their dog. Not only is it boring for them but if your dog's behavior needs improvement, you need to STOP using a food bowl. Jamie made a nice little video explaining why: https://dunbar.info/2NO5jjm

10.01.2022 Happy Christmas and God’s blessings for you & your family this Christmas!

09.01.2022 This is the reason I use only Flat collars or harnesses.

08.01.2022 Some dogs have different needs just like we do as humans.

06.01.2022 So back to definitions and uses of Lures, Rewards, Bribes and Distractions: A lot of people will use Food as a Distraction to try to interrupt or disrupt an und...esirable behavior in order to reinforce an alternative or incompatible behavior (DRO/DRI). This practice can easily slide down the slippery slope of Bribing in the same way that so much Lure/Reward Training crumbles to Bribery, when 1. Food Lures are not phased out within the first few trials and 2. The necessity of Food Rewards are not phased out within the very first session. We must make sure that a dog happily and promptly complies even when the trainer doesn’t have food in their hand or on their person. In fact, when using any training tool, the most important item on the training agenda is to teach the dog to be compliant without it, i.e., to phase out the necessity of food and toy lures and rewards, clickers, leashes, collars, halters, harnesses and extremes of tone and volume of antecedent voice. I prefer to use Food as a Distraction to Training (all Bait Bags on a table in the middle of the Training Room) to proof the dog to maintain compliance (RR%) in the presence of distractions. Once the dog complies, e.g., Comes (away from the Table) and Sits (front) and Watches (me), I will often give the dog the food Distraction as a Reward. The nitty gritty for speedy and effective training is understanding the differences between using food as Lures, Rewards and Bribes. So, let’s define all three and then we’ll appreciate the colossal problem at hand. A LURE is presented BEFORE the RESPONSE to TEACH a willing dog, which SPECIFIC RESPONSE is desired. The lure-movement approximates a handsignal that dogs quickly learn to understand. (Body language is one of their languages.) However, handsignals have one major constraint sometimes the dog cannot see them, for example, when its back is turned. Much more useful therefore, is to use lures to teach the dog the meaning of VERBAL commands, i.e., to teach a dog ESL English (or any other language) as a Second Language human words for doggy behaviors and actions, in order to open up communication channels, so that we may: 1. Issue understandable instructions, 2. Praise the dog for prompt, happy and willing compliance, or 3. Offer instructive feedback for lack of compliance or undesirable behavior. 1. Verbal Request - 2. Lure (Handsignal) - 3. Specific Desirable Response A REWARD is presented AFTER the Response to REINFORCE the immediately preceding, specific, desirable behavior, so that it increases in frequency and is therefore, more likely to occur in the future. 1. Verbal Request - 2. Lure - 3. Response - 4. Reward A BRIBE is 1. Presented BEFORE the Response to coerce an unwilling dog to act against its will and then 2. Offered AFTER the Response as a Payout. As we all know, BEHAVIOR IS DRIVEN BY CONSEQUENCES. However, when bribing, we are attempting to drive behavior by changing the Antecendents, e.g., by talking sweetly, or offering tastier and tastier food up front. This works. BUT ONLY TEMPORARILY. After a few trials, the dog blows off the Bribe, whereupon the trainer looks for smellier, greasier, more effective bribes, which work for only a few more trials before the dog becomes disinterested. LURE/REWARD TRAINING using food or toys as Lures and Rewards is the quickest and most effective and one of the easiest and enjoyable training techniques to teach a dog to respond promptly, willingly and happily to verbal cues, when off-leash, at a distance, in the presence of distractions and without the continued need of any training tool whatsoever, especially including, leashes, collars, halters, harnesses and food lures and food rewards. SO, WHAT GOES WRONG? Well, if you use the same item, e.g., food, as a Lure AND as a Reward, the use of food comes very close to the definition of Bribing, with just one exception Is the puppy/dog willing or NOT? Now, most 12-week old puppies will happily follow a Lure-movement a couple of hundred times before they develop competing interests and blow off the lure. In fact, first week in class, the average Lab pup will enthusiastically perform 20 Puppy Push-ups for the prospect of a single treat. (That’s a Response:Reward Ratio of 40:1) Varying considerably by breed, even adult dogs will gladly give you a couple of score or so of repetitions before becoming distracted and losing motivation. Consequently, a trainer has only a LIMITED number of trials to benefit from the instructional and reinforcing effectiveness of Lure/Reward Training before they must discontinue using food as BOTH a Lure AND a Reward, so that it doesn’t become a Bribe. No biggie though. There are a couple of easy ways to go about this: 1. Use different items as Lures than as Rewards, e.g., use food as a lure but a tennis ball as a reward, or vice versa, or, use a tug toy as a lure and a tummy-rub, or couch-time as a reward. 2. Follow the basic instructions for Lure/Reward Training and a) Phase out the use of food as a Lure and b) Phase out the necessity of food as a Reward. We check a Handsignal ONLY or Verbal ONLY (no food in hand) Come-Sit-Down-Sit-Stand-Down-Stand sequence on the 9th trial. Additionally, we begin to phase out food rewards in the first few trials. (For Trials 1>4, the Response:Reward Ratio is 2.5:1 and for Trials 5>8 the RRR is 7:1).

03.01.2022 Extremely good About no need to dominate your animal. Dominating means you end up with a fearful dog.

02.01.2022 Edit 12/1/2020 unfortunately this continues to be the state of things. Please contact Mary or Jane as below. Due to personal & health issues that need not to be pushed away anymore, I am taking an indefinite break from dog training. If you are wanting reputable positive reinforcement dog trainers within the Latrobe Valley please contact Jane Morrey or Mary at K9 focus & fun. https://www.facebook.com/297569223989115/