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24.01.2022 The Southeast is the only area in Australia that knows of a Deus Otiosus, a distant creator. In the Bundjalang, they call it budgeram - "away back from the beg...inning." Their were these three people, Yulidarra/Ngudgeegullum, Birrugan and Gwanggan. Yulidarra/Ngudgeegullum was the boss of the whole world. He never dies. Birrugan and Gwanggan, they both died. Birrugan was the most handsome man in the world. Gwanggan was the most beautiful woman in the whole world. Birrugan died, but he's supposed to come back some day. He's above all the nguluungurr, the clever fellas. In the beginning, this land was one whole land from here to India. The Goories used to go over and fight the Indians and come back again. The old people said that the people they had fought had a kind of turban on their heads and that when fighting, you'd see this turban thing slip off and you'd see their long hair all fall down backwards. Their was a sacred spring at Djooloom (Tooloom). No one was all lowed to go near it. Once, when the Goories wanted to go over to India to fight, there was a man who had two wives. He didn't want his wives to follow him to India. So he took his nulla-nulla and half killed them both. Then he went over and left those nyaami-bula (two women) behind. When the men were gone, these nyaami-bula put their heads together, "we'll go to the sacred spring." They took their ganaay - (digging sticks), to the sacred spring and one went digging this way and one went digging the other way, both intent on meeting up. As they dug, the ngaarlu (water) from the spring followed them. Where they met, the ngaarlu became turbulent. When the Goories finished the war on the other side, they started on their way back to this place where all they could see was ngaarlu. This Birrugan was with them. He made the mountains and islands rise up out of the ngaarlu, then the ngaluungurr (clever fellas) threw their special stings from their djalang (mouths) from island to island. They crossed over this cord till they got back to Barrway wanggaandami wadjaar (Australia). As soon as they got back, they knew what had happened and blamed that man for beating his wives. These warriors came across those nyaami-bula at the Australian Bight. One of the ngaluungurr turned those nyaami-bula into stone. After that, Goories lost touch with the outside world. They never went back fighting anymore. This was in the beginning of the world. ****** Birrugan and Mindi lived Birraw (north). (North of where I was told these stories) They got along like bulagurr (brothers). Birrugan hunted Nguungu (kangaroos) and Marrgan (rock wallabies). Their miil (eyes) were muugu (closed) and they were easy to catch. Mindi owned the djaam (yam) fields and he used to get lots of djaam. One day, Mindi was only bringing back a few. Birrugan and Mindi argued about not sharing. They had a big buulmay (fight). The next day when Birrugan went out to his hunting ground where the nuungu and gulidjuu (Pademelon) and marrgan were. Mindi followed him out, sneaking out behind him and after Birrugan had waliwurra (killed) bula (two), he left and Mindi stayed there and did some magic on his nuungu and marrgaan. He went, "Yoo, yoo, yoo!" and opened up the nuungu and marrgan miil. When Birrugan went out they saw him coming so it was hard for him to catch any. He went back in and he talked to Miindi and they had the biggest argument about... He knew Mindi had done it. On the next day, when Mindi went out to his djaam fields, Birrugan sneaked behind him and after Mindi left, Birrugan put lots of muniim (rocks) on top of his djaam fields and built a peak called, the Glenugie Peak, up near Grafton. Mindi went out the next day and saw them, he come back, and him and Birrugan had the biggest buulmay, they were bumiyarri (fighting), all day and night, till Birrugan started to get the upper hand. Mindi started running down along Ngunidjidji (Clarence Bindarray (River)). Birrugan caught him at a place called Tyndale and struck him and he fell into the ngaarlu. And when he fell into the ngaarlu, Birrugan went "Muniimba", "Turn to muniim". A relative saw what happened and run back down wanggaan (south) and they challenged Gumbaynggirr people for a buulmay. This buulmay, was happening at a place called South West Rocks, a place called Arakoon but to Gumbaynggirr people it's Marrgaan. The buulmay was going on at Marrgaan whilst Birrugan was still birraw, and Gumbaynggirr people were getting beaten. So they sent for Birrugan to come, because he was a powerful warrior. Birrugan started walking wanggaan for the buulmay. He walked along the gidjuur (sand). He saw djiinda-bula (two sisters) on the gidjuur getting garlaany (pipis). He left them, then he come down to (Djarningbirriny) Valla where we are now, to his favourite duwa (boomerang) bigurr (tree) and made duwa and bilaar (spears) and gaman (nulla-nulla). Before he left, the people wanggaan sent six ngaluunggirr (clever people) up to try and waliwurra him before he can get down there, the ngaluunggirr. They come in the forms of snakes and all these ants, to try and get him Birrugan waliwurra them all. One got up in a bigurr and a bilaar came and hit Birrugan right on the buruum (shoulder) and all the muluurr (blood) went all over Birrugan so he pulled the bilaar out and smashed it and he killed the ngaluungirr and then went across the creek to his miimi (mother) place. Gawnggan Miimigga was camping. He put a ngulany (dilly-bag) at her camp and told his miimi, "If that ngulany falls," "then you know I've fallen in buulmay." Then he left her and went across the yamaan (creek)and then he painted up again and then he went to a place called Wirriimbi, just wanggaan of Baga Baga (Nambucca Heads). He cut a baagu (canoe) in the Baga Baga Bindarray, and went across to a place up near Gamang (Macksville) called Gumma, and from there, he went down into the buulmay and started waliwurragga those opposite. Birrugan came to Smokey Cape, between Kempsey and Gamang. He came across guyunggan (old woman) and her Baabany (grand-daughter) there. The junoy (little girl) was feeding a buurrga (eel) in a spring. The guyunggan went over and saw that the buurrga was nearly as barrway (big) as herself. She went back to camp and made a bigurr (spear). She thought she could waliwurra the buurrga and eat it. She bawgiya (stabbed/speared) the buurrga. It was so barrway that the bigurr nearly broke. The buurrga went right through the mountains into the gaagal (sea). When Birrugan was going along the gaagal (beach), he saw the buurrga. He dragged it along with him. He took it to Smokey Cape to feed the whole tribe. There were thousands of wild people. When the gaagu (brother) dragged the buurrga, and he fed all those people. He went down to the Bindarray Macleay and all the Goories went with him. He took the intestines out of Djungirr. He left the bear alive on the tree. He made a bridge out of those intestines, and they all went across, with yanggaay (shark) infested ngaarlu. An old Gumgali (goanna) wanted to cut the bridge with a wagarr (stone axe), so that some would fall in the ngaarlu. But Birrugan wouldn't let him. Old gumgali got left behind instead. He couldn't see the Birrugan and he made the bridge disappear. Birrugan and all the people camped. He told the guyunggan, "I'm gonna put this ngulany in this tree, if it falls down, you'll know they've waliwurragga me." Birrugan went down to Arakoon, where the racecourse is. When the people saw him, they came with their bilaar. They were jealous of this Birrugan. The old people down there were so scared that one of the clever people went into a cave and called on the ancestors to give him the power, the knowledge, to waliwurra Birrugan. And then he went back down and said, "He's got a weak spot. Aim for his shoulder." They threw the bilaar up and one went down and hit Birrugan. When Birrugan fell, the ngulany fell, made a big hole in the ground. His miimi knew that he had fallen in battle so she painted all herself up like a Barlawi (brolga). And she went across the yamaan and went back down into the buulmay and she saw that they were trying to keep Birrugan alive. But Birrugan passed away. When she got there, she looked at the enemy and said, "Balawunga." Balawunga is a tea-tree, Balawungala is "turn to tea-tree". So she turned all the enemy into tea-trees. They buried Birrugan and put all these muniim on top of him and built a tomb. When they finished building the tomb, Gawnggan Miimigga turned herself into a Barlawi and yilliwar (danced) around his tomb. The old people used to say that Gawnggan Barlawi used to come back and wa an (dance) around the tomb. All the Balawunga are still there and his tomb is still down there too. And then djiinda-bula came down and got Birrugan out of the tomb and went wanggaan to a place called Seal Rocks. They went across to the island and they made a ladder with Murrbay (white fig) bigurr and ascended into the warru (sky), the three of them, and djiinda-bula became the two pointer wiinda (stars) and Birrugan became the Southern Cross. So when we look up at the sky, and we look at the Southern Cross, we look at Birrugan and djiinda-bula. Merry Easter

23.01.2022 Combing the world for masterpieces, contd.

21.01.2022 Tibetan nomads' sling shots at sunrise on my office door.

20.01.2022 The Dao ethnolinguistic group constitutes a very ancient minority people, perhaps once of Mongolia but certainly of China also referred to as the Yao or Mien. W...ith a total population of nearly 900,000 people in Vietnam, the Dao live predominantly in the northern mountainous provinces and are widely considered mountain people with a deep connection to the forest. Each Dao subgroup is easily identified by their costumes which vary widely but are usually characterised by the inclusion of intricate embroidery. The Im Mien (also called the Man Den, or Black Dao) are found in the Sin Ho area of Lai Chau Province, Vietnam. Originally from Jinping, some 200km to the north, they have been in Sin Ho since at least the 19th century. They dress in subdued but luxurious colours, adorned with glass beading, silk tassels and layers of silver jewellery worn during ceremonies. Much of this jewellery consists of vintage family heirlooms collected with finances generated when this region used to be a strong opium growing area. Their 'Man Den' Vietnamese name (Black Dao) stems from the fact that their dress and headscarf are dyed such a deep indigo that the colour is black rather than the more usual dark blue. Their extra large black turban is worn by most females over the age of fourteen. For those who are skillful with their hands, it takes a year to complete each outfit, meaning most women carry their embroidery with them wherever they go. To make a female costume, the Dao acquire silk thread and cotton fabric from other local ethnic minority groups and use these materials to make their intricately embroidered costumes. The silk is first twisted and depending on the size of the thread, it is later twisted again. Sometimes two or four threads are twisted to make threads ready for embroidering. The embroidery is completed in lines using the full length of the needle, and is quite unique in that a design appears on both sides of the fabric. While the embroidery incorporates traditional designs and colour schemes, the intensity of the colours varies with the threads available. Motifs feature common themes of family and village life. Some motifs are derived from nature, others represent the Taoist balance between people and their environment. Symbols include designs such as the banyan tree, gibbons paw, and birds. Perhaps the most stunning elements of the whole outfit are the exquisite embroidered belt and the patterned details on the pants. Both are embroidered with 13-14 different pattern lines in seven colours stitched with silk onto plain indigo dyed cotton fabric. Each take months to complete and complement the beads, tassels and silver features beautifully. ETHOS have a stunning vintage wedding belt available for purchase. Please send us a PM if you’re interested in hearing more. Photo Credit: Phil Hoolihan, Voice of Vietnam and Michael Jennings

19.01.2022 This is are yellow Maonan Group wedding bedcover .Late 19th century in exceptional condition, from Huanjiang county in Guanxi province China. 160x85 cm. Silk fl...oss and cotton. The choice of bright yellow and the rare absence of an horizontal band normally found in Maonan wedding blankets make this piece remarkable. Motives combine flower vases and phoenix as omen of a happy and long life. What’s extraordinary with maonan brocade weaves were the unique large bamboo barrel shaped loom. Weaving was so complicated that most weavers could weave over 10/12 cm/day. Today only very scarce looms remain in actvity in a few villages of the Nothern part of the province , but research carried out by Eric Boudot in 2005/06 and 2012 showed that while these few women still know how to weave ( with harsh artificial colors) no one in villages still know how to repair broken looms. In a decade the Maonan lay have died out.

18.01.2022 Miao baby carrier - Nankai county - Guizhoe Province - China geometric pattern - abstract dragon design - applique - cross stich G.Hellweger

16.01.2022 The African country of Uganda is one of the world’s largest consumers of bananas. But for every ton of the fruit, plantations leave behind two tons of refuse. TexFad transforms them into tough fiber that can be woven into rugs, place mats, and even hair extensions.

14.01.2022 Huangping Miao - ear plugs - Guizhou - SW China G.Hellweger

12.01.2022 #SubanThauksuban

12.01.2022 The Dao Tuyn (Iu Mien) women of Binh Lu district wear hand loomed, plain black trousers together with black jackets decorated at the sleeves and collars with t...hin bands of embroidery, coins and beads. The hair is worn distinctively and kept in place by a large silver frame which sits on top of the head. It is then wrapped in thick black cord and finally covered by a black scarf decorated with beads and tassels. With a rich culture of weaving and embroidery, Dao Tuyn clothing is distinct in design and appealing in its simplicity. The thick cotton weave gives their jackets a weight and finish quality unlike that of any of the other tribal groups in Vietnam. They are also famed for their growing usd use of ramie (cây lá gai in Vietnamese). Ramie is a flowering plant in the nettle family and native to eastern Asia. Its fibres have been used in textiles by the Dao Tuyn for centuries and use of the plant is known to span over 6,000 years. While the Dao Tuyn make their traditional clothes from cotton, they use ramie fibres to make beautiful bags. Stems are harvested by cutting just above the roots. This enables the core to be broken and stripped from the plant. After harvesting, the bark ribbon is then dried as quickly as possible, preventing bacteria and fungi from attacking it. The end product is one of the strongest natural fibers. The spun threads have an inherent stiffness, like linen, and so can be woven into a lightweight open weave pattern that is very cool and refreshing in humid climates. Extremely absorbent, much more than cotton, ramie fabrics breathe well and make comfortable clothing. The fabric does not shrink and it is resistant to bacteria and mildew, which means it does not rot easily. Natural, earthy, textured, strong & practical, organic ramie bags made by the Dao Tuyn are made by hand by intricately knotting the fibres and sometimes later dying with indigo. These bags take many weeks to make and are designed to last many years. They are most frequently used when foraging in the forests when collecting wild fruits and mushrooms. The bags are also used to take goods to market and used as shopping bags to carry any purchased items home. These bags offer such practicality that our guides often use them when trekking. Lightweight and ideally sized to carry a water bottle and a picnic, we love that traditional skills have such perfect modern day purpose. Remarkably, ramie is also used by the Vietnamese to make a glutinous rice cake, called bánh gai. Ramie leaves extract give the outer layer its dark green colour. ETHOS have a very limited selection of hand made ramie bags for sale on request.

10.01.2022 Miao people - tin plate embroidery on aprons Guizhou - SE China G.Hellweger

07.01.2022 Most Hmong women in Vietnam wear a ‘Spirit Skirt’ for their own funerals in order to safely join their ancestors in the next world. The Hmong are proud of their... handmade clothes, and women's pleated hemp skirts are considered the most beautiful element of all traditional garments. Hand spun, hand woven hemp is meticulously decorated with batik before dying many times with natural indigo. Brightly coloured silk thread is then used to add even more decoration and vibrancy. Exquisite, hand crafted clothing is said to demonstrate a woman's good temperament, perseverance and willingness to work hard. Indeed, many of these skirts take between one and two years to go from seeds and leaves to the stunning finished product. Although worn proudly as day uk day attire, some Of the most beautiful pieces are actually made to wear when passing into the afterlife. When Hmong people pass away, family members dress them in a hat, clothing, shoes made of hemp cloth and sometimes place a silver coin in their mouth. Deceased Hmong women are dressed in up to four hemp skirts. ‘Spirit Skirts’ are stunning pieces that can be easily classified as contemporary works of art. Hmong women respect their hemp skirts for their strength and durability. They hang naturally and are considered suitable for life in the mountains. The crisply pleated hemp skirts are a symbol of the Hmong, now recognized all over the world. According to mythology, the hemp "hundred pleats" skirt represents the umbrella carried by one of their goddesses that was used to make the sky. The patterns and unique designs in each 'Spirit skirt' can describe the everyday lives of the Hmong as well as patterns that represent farming productivity, shamanism, nature and village life. We have two stunning ‘Spirit Skirts’ available for sale. Please PM for more information.

03.01.2022 Sani Yi woman twining hemp thread, Stone Forest County, Yunnan, China

01.01.2022 Setting up a loom for weaving!