Weaver Marine Surveyors in Safety Bay, Western Australia, Australia | Surveyor

Weaver Marine Surveyors

Locality: Safety Bay, Western Australia, Australia

Phone: +61 402 485 328

Address: 41 Reflection Mews 6169 Safety Bay, WA, Australia

Website: http://www.weavermarine.com.au

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25.01.2022 https://www.animatedknots.com/boating-knots

23.01.2022 Tip of the week #2 When most Boaties think about high gloss polyurethane finishes they think about expensive spray jobs, heaps of masking and legislation that prevents spraying in most environments. Well there is another way. For the last 20 years Weaver Marine has been doing high quality urethane paint jobs with a brush. These paint jobs are so good that I have had paint company reps say that could never have been done with a brush. With the correct preparation, product a...nd application technique you cannot tell the difference from a high quality spray job. There are several other benefits that I will list. 1 minimal masking and covering due to no overspray. 2 The paint is applied much thicker as it doesnt need to be thinned to get it through a spray gun. 10% max. Causing the paint system to last longer. 3 Can be done outside with few environmental concerns. Talk to us about the possibilities for you boat

23.01.2022 Ive just finished doing a gunwhale repair to the classic Fife design Eun na Mara. She got T boned by a Far 37 while racing on the swan. Found it difficult to get Brazilian Mahogany to do the repair but fortunately the owner had just enough.

23.01.2022 Tip of the week. #1 Weaver Marine tip for the week. As a marine surveyor I regularly see these Chinese cast stainless shackles fitted to important rigging items. Unfortunately I often see them fail. Only use them where you can afford them to fail. (Like your bell rope or car keys)... Ask for forged rated shackles for use on any important connections. You can usually pick the difference by the round shape cast shackles have around the pin. The photo of the new one is a quality rated item. Hope this is helpful Happy and safe sailing. See more

23.01.2022 Tip of the week: #3 As you may have seen on our web site we do a fair amount of nice timber work and yacht joinery. This weeks tip is the starting point for all good timber work. Whether you are re-fitting your interior or just making a locker hinge rebate bigger this is it. I have been fortunate enough to work with some greats of the Australian Shipwright world, Ken Beashal, Warren Mews, Dave Morse to name a few. But this tip I learnt even before my exposure to these master ...craftsmen. In 1974 I did school woodwork at Applecross Senior High School and this most valuable tip was the first thing they taught. Here it is !!!! Always use sharp tools. You will never and I mean never do great woodwork with blunt tools. Its great to have good tools but even cheap tools will work well if they are sharp. It just makes the job so much easier. I love Veritas tools personally but they still need to be razor sharp. If you cant shave your arm with them theyre not sharp enough. I hope this is helpful Happy boating The Weavers See more

22.01.2022 Big storm on the way for Perth. Yesterday I made up and fitted 2 new mooring head ropes (which I do ever year). Hopefully this will keep our boat off the beach. I left the old head ropes on as well due to the forecast for the next few days.

22.01.2022 Tip of the week #4 Over the next few weeks my tips will be about varnish work and how to get high quality finishes. Before that, lets look at some tools/ideas that will assist you in your varnish journey.... Who hates to clean out brushes?? Yeh me too!!! At the end of a long hot day I cant think of anything worse. But because of that this very important process often gets cut short resulting in costly outcomes. Thats why I came up with an answer The brush tube I usually only use 3 size brushes for general varnish work. So to have these brushes always ready to go without cleaning is a very time saving practice. The brushes are always suspended in a sealed tube with thinners up to the bottom of the feral. I keep my tubes upright in my work trailer so they get agitated as I drive and any particles settle in the bottom getting stuck in any varnish residue. I change the thinners/turps every few weeks and the brushes always stay clean. I only use brushes with high quality (DuPont) tapered synthetic filaments that are never affected by being constantly immersed in turps/thinners. I have done $50,000 varnish jobs only using my 3 brushes sizes and they end up still being in good condition to varnish another day. A few hints If youre not using the brushes for long periods of time, wash them out conventionally and store them hanging in your dust free tube without thinners till next time. Because I am always varnishing my brushes stay permanently in turps. A word of caution if you are using varnishes like Awlwood, the thinners will soften the PVC tube in about 2 weeks so be careful. This is long enough to do a 10 coat application before the tube deteriorates. The tube trick only works long term with turps based systems, paint or varnish. On jobs where I need a VERY clean brush I wash them out in clean turps before I start and spin them clean with a paint spinner. A good investment. I hope this is helpful Happy boating The Weavers

20.01.2022 The finished item! The new companionway steps ready to go in. Robin Hood is coming out of the water for her annual slipping on Friday. So stay tuned for some ...photos of the procedure. About 6 steam bent sister ribs are going in forward, re-fastening the plank hood ends and the garboard. About 40 copper bolts and a heap of copper nail and rove fastening replaced. See more

20.01.2022 Hmmm won't be keeping that to starboard Safety Bay Rockingham Western Australia

20.01.2022 Tip of the week. #5 Last week I started a series of posts on varnish work which I will postpone for a week due to a serious situation that I encountered in the last couple of days. I live in an area that has many boats stored on swing moorings in a bay open to northerly winds but safe from prevailing southerlys. A couple of times a years we have Northerly storms and 5-10 boats end up on the beach. In this weeks post I want to address WHY. ... I also moor my own yacht in this area so I have considerable personal interest in preventing my boat from suffering the same fate. This last Monday night a northerly storm was predicted with very strong winds. Overnight and the following morning 9 boats came ashore. Out of the nine boats I made the following observations: Only 1 boat came ashore with its mooring boy attached indicating that only 1 out of 9 was a mooring failure issue. The rest were failures above the float. In the last 5 years or so bi-annual mandatory servicing of all DOT registered moorings has been the law. Thats the best thing they ever did in my opinion. Before that law most boats came ashore from mooring failure below the float due to irregular or no professional servicing. That means that 8 out of 9 boats break their moorings and come ashore due to deck fitting failure, line chafe or deteriorated or light head ropes. All these things above the float are the owners responsibility not the mooring contractors unless instructed. Check out the photos to see these examples. Tip 1: In high risk areas like Palm Beach/Mangles Bay change head ropes EVERY year. UV deteriorates synthetic ropes very quickly allowing them to chafe faster. Tip 2: Use adequate size dual head ropes so they are totally independent from each other. Not bridle spliced. Tip 3: Use abrasion protectors like fire hose or plastic hose on high risk fittings such as fair leads and stem fittings. Even a towel wrapped around will help. Tip 3: avoid sharp changes of angle in the head rope or sharp edged fittings. Tip 4: Make sure your mooring fittings are well secured to the boat and that the deck is adequate to take the load. I have often seen cleats pull a great lump of deck clean out. I have also seen fair leads pull out allowing the head rope to chafe through on the exposed edge of the deck. Tip:5 Lower the wind resistance of your boat. Take covers off, headsails off furlers ect. In the last 2 weeks I have seen 2 boats where the furlers have let go allowing the sails to unroll causing disastrous results. Even mains furled on booms Ive seen let go. Tip 6: Move your boat to a marina for the storm season. (Note to self!!) I hope this is helpful Happy boating The Weavers

19.01.2022 Hmmm wont be keeping that to starboard Safety Bay Rockingham Western Australia

19.01.2022 Tip of the week #8 Still on the topic of good varnish. This week its Which Brush? I have spent years trying to find brushes that I really liked with very little success. This has been a journey for me from the 1970s and since then a lot has changed.... Over the years I have tried pure bristle brushes, different species of pure bristle brushes, foam brushes, synthetic brushes and totally ridiculously over priced brushes! I am currently using brushes that I think do a very good job at a very reasonable price. They are a synthetic nylon/polyester round tapered solid filament bristle brush made by DuPont in a Purdy handle and feral. These are the reasons I like them. 1) Being synthetic every bristle is the same in every brush in that brand and model. So if I buy 10 Purdy Sprig medium stiff (my favourite) theyre all going to feel exactly the same. Now that is super important!!!! Why?? If every brush I pick up has a different feel it makes it very hard to get consistently good coatings. So using a consistent brush means my brain gets so accustomed to the same feel that it can focus on application without having to adjust to a brush feel. I take this to ridiculous lengths. I use the same brushes for primer, undercoat, high quality 2 pack finishes or varnish work. That way my brain never has to adjust. At one stage some years ago we imported badger hair brushes from the US. The problem was that every brush was different. Depending on the age/size and condition of the badger the brush had a different feel. Thats why I like synthetic filament. 2) I like a fairly thin brush, I dont want it carry too much varnish. I dont like short bristles or curved ferals. I think the Purdy Sprig is just the right length and and volume. 3) For the sort of varnish work we do I generally use 3 models: Purdy Sprig 50mm Purdy Glide 38mm Purdy Dale 25mm All medium stiff. I hope this is helpful Happy boating The Weavers

18.01.2022 We are now the Western Australian distributor for Epifanes varnishes and products. The best varnish possibly in the world. All the Super Yachts use it. Contact us if you need some.

10.01.2022 Im currently working on a large compass rose to be fitted into a jarrah timber floor. Ive posted some photos with explanations and yes I still have 10 fingers.

09.01.2022 Tip of the week #6 This week we are back to varnish work after a weeks interlude to discuss mooring failure last week. One of the most frustrating things about doing varnish and paintwork on your boat is this; You have set aside the time, the weather is perfect, so you race down to the boat to find you dont have any tape aboard and your brushes are nowhere to be found. Very frustrating. You row or walk ashore, back to the hardware shop and by that time its too ...late in the day to apply. How I overcame this problem with my own yacht was by setting up a varnish kit. I put together a basic kit that always remains in the same box on the boat ready to go. 1) The box: I bought a 18ltr plastic storage box with a clipon lid that neatly fits under the port settee berth of our yacht Robin Hood. All of the following gear fits in this box; (Keep in mind when I go to do a pro varnish job I take a trailer full of gear but this kit is just enough to do over coating of paint or varnish for periodic maintenance) Whats in the box? Here we go! 2) A waterproof mat for mixing on, to keep your boat clean. Spills can be very frustrating. 3) A brush tube. If you missed my tip a few weeks ago I explained how they work and how to make one. You will find that on Weaver Marines Facebook page. The particular one in this box is shorter so it will fit and the brushes have had their handles cut down. 4) A couple of good synthetic fibre brushes. I will explain in another post why I use the brushes I do. 5) A flat blade putty knife which I will also explain later. 6) A couple of metres of quality sand paper in these grades: 80,120,180,240,320,400 7) A cork block or similar 8) Mixing buckets. We import these from Kazakhstan as they are cheaper but your local hardware should have them. 9) Relevant thinners or turps. 10) Tack cloths. 11) Tape 3/4, 1 , 1 1/2. 12) Snap knife 13) Tin opener 14) Sanding gloves and application gloves 15) A dust mask 16) Dust brush 17) Quality varnish 18) A small note book and pencil. This is the most important thing in the box. You write down what you need to replace for next time, put the note in your pocket and the note book and pencil back in your box. Note: To do strip and straighten work you need a few more tools: Heat gun 3 corner scrapers Rotary orbital sander Abrasive discs And straightening boards I might do a post on strip and straighten later. Hopefully now you should be able to dash down the boat and put on a coat without some of the frustration. Please understand, this is a short cut gear list but will work for most re application jobs I hope this is helpful Happy boating The Weavers

08.01.2022 Tip of the week #7 Good varnish work This week we are going to look at varnish product.... This is one of the most important elements of high quality bright work. People often say to me Its all about preparation!!! Well thats part of it but you can do outstanding prep work, use the wrong varnish and it will still look like crap. Im sure that you all have your own favourites but years of professional experience have taught me this. 1) Dont expect a good finish by choosing the varnish based on the lowest cost. Theres a reason why it is cheep. Sub standard ingredients or R and D short cuts. A concert pianist doesnt spend 10 hours a day practicing then buy a cheap piano to play recitals on. 2) I Believe a good quality tung oil varnish will generally give the best results and workability. I dont use varnish if the system doesnt come with a thinner and a retarder available. Why you may ask? Thinning varnish doesnt slow down the tack time. It just makes it thinner. Q. What tacks off faster? Thick varnish or thin? A. Thin! So dont expect a thinner to extend the tack time. Thats what a retarder does. So if your loading in the thinners on a hot sunny day to slow it down your probably making it worse. With thinners you adjust the viscosity and with retarder you adjust the tack time. I regularly have people say Just add some Penetrol. If a industrial chemist spent 6 years at university to learn how to perfectly balance the chemicals in my varnish Im not going to just bung in some random product that hasnt been specifically designed for my varnish. Who knows how that will affect the myriad of different concoctions on the market. 3) I only use single pack urethane varnish on specific components. It performs poorly over moving joints. Any joint that can expand and contract will crack the varnish skin, moisture will get in and the system will brake down at the crack. I use Awlwood on my mast, bow sprit, boom and any other single piece item that has no moving joints. It gives an amazing finish and exceptional life (4 years on the mast)but it is very difficult to repair once it cracks. Unlike Tung oil varnish you cant just rub out the crack and repair it without it showing a dark edge. Thats why I use Tung oil varnish on things like hatches, superstructures, or anything else that may need repairs. 4) I personally use Epifanes gloss clear which is a Tung oil varnish. Everyone I have got onto this has said their varnish has gone to a whole new level. In Perth WA where the UV is extremely harsh I find 10 coats from scratch then 2 coats every 12 months keeps my varnish always looking perfect without covers. (Although I do cover whatever I can) I hope this is helpful Happy boating The Weavers

07.01.2022 Qualified Traditional Shipwright & Qualified Marine Surveyors: Master Shipwright: Ian Weaver has over 40 years Experience in Western Australia, NSW and overseas. We can come to you or work on pieces in our workshop. We specialize in Fine Woodwork & Classic Timber boats, Halvorsens & H28s etc, We also do Bespoke Pieces, Fit Outs, Repairs, Alterations, Training, Skipper and crew / hostess for events, Pre Purchase Inspections, Surveys,Training, Insurance Inspections, Reports, Loss Adjusting, Legal Services, Repair Consultation & Project Management. We also have a specialized Varnish Team that can work for discounted rates. www.weavermarine.com.au

02.01.2022 Recently a friend who sails in our H28 fleet had a serious T bone situation take place. The other boat went so far through that their stem hit the H28s mast in the middle of the boat. I have been gradually repairing it in between surveys. Here are some picks.