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21.01.2022 @wadegoodall had a productive 2020, releasing a movie and owner-building a new house for the family. He also surfed. This pandemic has been the biggest thing in our lifetime and it’s shifted peoples’ attitudes. People partying less and surfing more. It’s hard to ignore it. We’re not invincible and carefree. We’re not white guys in Kuta anymore. Poppies Two ain’t popping. It’s been a readjust for a lot of people. We chat to Wade in SW412 on sale now. @duncanm
21.01.2022 Sunrise on Wednesday, July 15, was 6.58am. Ollie parked down the bottom of the hill and was in his wettie at 5.45am. He got out quicker than expected, although a set came through the Bower as he skirted the break and nearly got him. It was really breaking wide and I was just like, fuck yes, it’s on. I had the goal to paddle the biggest wave of the morning. I thought, it’s on, get ready. I hope you’re ready, bro.
11.01.2022 "I used to ghost shape ten 6’0 squashtail thrusters a day. Let’s talk about brain numbing. So I was so happy when I met Dave because all of a sudden I was challenged, mentally challenged to come up with something better, as different as you want to go. The weirder it was the more amped he got on it."
10.01.2022 This shot pretty much sums up 2020 for a surfer in Australia. While the pandemic caused chaos all around the world, there was never a better time to be a surfer in Australia... and we surfed our brains out. Socially distanced in the Surfer’s Point car park, April 2020. From SW 412, on sale now. @driftwoodphotography_mr
02.01.2022 Dean Dampney from SW412. Wednesday July 15, 7am, Outside Kamikazes. Then the next set has hit and it’s broken on this outer bommie about 150m away, top-to-bottom 12-to-15 foot. I didn’t even know there was a bommie out there, but this was such a strong groundswell and all of a sudden this bommie presents itself. I’ve seen this wave stand up where I’ve never seen a wave break, and this thing was going inside-out. That single wave was by far the biggest wave I’ve ever caught ...on the East Coast of Australia by a factor of two. It was such a joy. It felt dead set like a cross between big, west Sunset and Laniakea. It wasn’t a sensational wave, it was a bit burger in parts, but I kicked out and thought I should probably call it a day and go in. Full story in SW412, on sale now. Photo: Chris Zinon. Give a SW subscription for Christmas: https://surfingworld.com.au/subscribe-to-surfing-world/
01.01.2022 Torren Martyn has been living quietly in a caravan. From SW412, on sale now. Buy online here: https://surfingworld.com.au/product/issue412/... Subscribe to SW here: https://surfingworld.com.au/subscribe-to-surfing-world/
