Asquith Home Brewing in Waitara, New South Wales, Australia | Homebrew supply shop

Asquith Home Brewing

Locality: Waitara, New South Wales, Australia

Phone: +61 2 9476 2022

Address: 3/46 Edgeworth David Ave 2077 Waitara, NSW, Australia

Website: http://www.asquithhomebrewing.com.au/

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25.01.2022 Easter Promotion: MORGAN’S PREMIUM STARTER KIT $80! Available in store now! #makegreatbeer #homebrew #morgansbrewingco #craftbeer #australianmade

23.01.2022 MR BEER Starter Kits make it very simple to produce 8.5 litres of craft beer * Everything you need is included in the kit to create decent home brew. * There's no mashing of the grains, straining and sparging, boiling the wort, adding the hops and then chilling it down before you can finally ferment it.

21.01.2022 Dear Customers, Letting you know Asquith Home Brewing(now located at Waitara) is closed from the 13th to 17th of May for a short break. Will reopen at 10am Saturday the 18th of May. Thank You. Kind Regards,... Mark Mainwaring See more

21.01.2022 Hi customers, If you didn’t already know I have relocated to Waitara! My shop name still remains as Asquith Home Brewing but I am now located at 3/46 Edgeworth David Ave (Enter shop via Balmoral St). I’ll be back open on Tuesday @ 10am! Have a good weekend!

20.01.2022 On a gluten free diet but love beer? I've got the solution for you! Give me a call or send me a message if you have any questions or alternatively pop in and see me!

18.01.2022 Hi customers, If you didn’t already know I have relocated to Waitara! My shop name still remains as Asquith Home Brewing but I am now located at 3/46 Edgeworth David Ave (Enter shop via Balmoral St). I’ll be back open on Tuesday @ 10am! Have a good weekend!

18.01.2022 Hi All, Just letting you know my internet has been down and will be fixed by the 30th December. Sorry for those who have tried to contact me. I am open today and will be reopen on the 2nd of January 2020! Merry Christmas & Happy New Year!... See you in 2020!

17.01.2022 For anyone out there thinking of making fresh homemade tomato sauce, beer or cider. Asquith Home Brewing have plenty of 750ml Amber Crown Top Beer Bottles in stock. They come packaged in cartons of 12 bottles for $19.50

17.01.2022 On a gluten free diet but love beer? I've got the solution for you! Give me a call or send me a message if you have any questions or alternatively pop in and see me!

16.01.2022 MR BEER Starter Kits make it very simple to produce 8.5 litres of craft beer * Everything you need is included in the kit to create decent home brew. * There's no mashing of the grains, straining and sparging, boiling the wort, adding the hops and then chilling it down before you can finally ferment it.

14.01.2022 OPEN TOMORROW - MONDAY 23rd MARCH! Hi everyone, Normally, Asquith Home Brewing would not be open for trading on Mondays. ... However, with the looming shut down of 'non-essential' businesses, I will be open tomorrow for trading from 10am- 6pm. Please come and get your last minute essentials before we all go into lock down!

14.01.2022 Easter Promotion: MORGAN’S PREMIUM STARTER KIT $80! Available in store now! #makegreatbeer #homebrew #morgansbrewingco #craftbeer #australianmade

13.01.2022 Great news customers! Asquith Home Brewing is now a supplier of Casey’s Brewery Fresh Wort Kits. The base range will be: - Amarillo Ale - American Pale Ale - Extra Special Bitter... - Kolsch - Pilsner - Wheat Beer For more information visit here: https://caseysbeer.com.au/fresh-wort-kits/

12.01.2022 Hi All, Just letting you know my internet has been down and will be fixed by the 30th December. Sorry for those who have tried to contact me. I am open today and will be reopen on the 2nd of January 2020! Merry Christmas & Happy New Year!... See you in 2020!

09.01.2022 OPEN TODAY - MONDAY 23rd MARCH! Just a friendly reminder that I am open today for anyone needing last minute supplies before we potentially go into lockdown. With our current situation, there’s no better time to start making your own fresh beer and cider when some of you may be stuck in doors....

09.01.2022 MR BEER Starter Kits make it very simple to produce 8.5 litres of craft beer * Everything you need is included in the kit to create decent home brew. * There's no mashing of the grains, straining and sparging, boiling the wort, adding the hops and then chilling it down before you can finally ferment it.

09.01.2022 Better late than never - Mangrove Jack's Recipe of the Month

07.01.2022 Great news customers! Asquith Home Brewing is now a supplier of Casey’s Brewery Fresh Wort Kits. The base range will be: - Amarillo Ale - American Pale Ale - Extra Special Bitter... - Kolsch - Pilsner - Wheat Beer For more information visit here: https://caseysbeer.com.au/fresh-wort-kits/

05.01.2022 HOME BREW FAQ Here at Morgan’s HQ we love helping home brewers #makegreatbeer at home, and we love it when our customers reach out to us for some help (seriousl...y, we do!). From time to time we might be busy on weekends or evenings and can’t get to your questions right away which is probably when you are brewing and need an answer, so we’ve put together a list of answers to some of the frequently asked questions we get sent. This way you can keep brewing with confidence that you’re on the right path. Fear not though, we’re still here to help if these aren’t the answers to your questions! Just when we’ve finished our Sunday naps! Q: AIRLOCK NOT BUBBLING. I’ve put my brew down as per the instructions, and several days in, my airlock is not bubbling. A: Don’t worry if your airlock is not bubbling as expected. Your brew is more than likely fermenting normally. The most common reason for this is the CO2 being produced is escaping the fermenter from a gap in the lid seal. Nothing can get into your fermenter due to the positive pressure being produced. Try loosening the lid and resealing itbut not too tight Muscles, ok. DO NOT TAKE THE LID OFF! Your brew is actively fermenting, and anything that gets in now will stuff it well and truly! If you can see activity on the surface of your brew, and condensation under the lid, your brew is fermenting normally so leave it alone! If you’re still unsure, take a hydrometer reading. This should show a reading lower than what you saw when you put the brew down. NOTE Your hydrometer readings are the ONLY way of knowing when your brew is fully fermented! Only bottle your beer when your hydrometer readings are the same over 2 consecutive days! Don’t rely on your airlock! Q: WHEN DO I KNOW IF MY BREW IS READY TO BOTTLE OR KEG? A: Generally, after around 7 days, your brew should be close to ready. BUT. the fermenting temperature will largely dictate on how long your brew takes to ferment. The hotter the ferment The shorter ferment time. The cooler the ferment The longer ferment time. Be patient during this time and don’t assume your brew is finished when the airlock stops bubbling. It’s quite ok to leave your precious brew in the fermenter for 2 weeks. Once fermentation finishes the yeast continues to work by cleaning up elements of the brew that can cause off flavours you don’t want. Only bottle when the ferment is finished! NOTE Your hydrometer readings are the ONLY way of knowing when your brew is fully fermented! Only bottle your beer when your hydrometer readings are the same over 2 consecutive days! Don’t rely on your airlock! Q: WHAT HAPPENS IF I BOTTLE MY BEER BEFORE ITS FINISHED FERMENTING? A: If your brew hasn’t finished fermenting, it will still contain too much unfermented sugar. If you bottle early, the remaining yeast will not only convert your priming sugar (carbonation drops etc.) into CO2, but also the unfermented sugar in your brew. At best this will result in heavily over carbonated beer (i.e. a glass full of foam!), at worst your bottles could explode! Believe us, you don’t want this!! NOTE Your hydrometer readings are the ONLY way of knowing when your brew is fully fermented! Only bottle your beer when your hydrometer readings are the same over 2 consecutive days! Don’t rely on your airlock! Sorry to harp on about this But Don’t rely on your airlock! Q: WHAT TEMPERATURE SHOULD I FERMENT MY BREW AT? A: This depends on what style of beer you are making, and which yeast you are using. Ale yeasts ferment best at higher temperatures (18-30 Deg C), and Lager yeast work best at low temps (9-15 Deg C), so needs temperature control to brew correctly. We supply Ale yeast with all of our Morgan’s tins as most new home brewers don’t have the ability to brew at Lager temps, and can only brew at the higher range. We recommend Ale yeast ideally be fermented between 18-22 Deg C. Higher temps will still work but will produce off flavours that aren’t consistent with how your beer should taste. Temps over 30 deg C will kill the yeast cells, and your brew will fail to ferment. If you live in a cold climate and your brew temp drops too low, the yeast will effectively go to sleep. It will reawaken when the temps rise again and continue to ferment. In this event we recommend a heat pad or belt that will allow you to maintain the correct temps throughout the ferment. If you prefer using a specialist yeast that you’ve purchased, refer to the packet and ensure your temps stay within the range specified. NOTE For absolute best results, and consistency the temps you ferment at should not fluctuate too far. Try to keep your temps within a couple of degrees of your target temp. Speak to you local Home Brew Store about the temp control options they have in stock. For example, the Cool Brewing Fermenter Cooler Bag which eliminates the need for a dedicated brewing fridge. Q: MY BREW ISN’T FERMENTING. My brew has been down for a week, and my hydrometer readings are still too high. A: When you draw some wort from the fermenter tap for a hydrometer reading, always discard the first 20-30 ml. As your brew ferments, spent yeast drops out of the brew and settles on the bottom of your fermenter. Some of this sediment can settle in your tap and sediment reducer. The presence of this sediment in your sample for testing will affect the gravity and show a higher reading than is actually the case. If you think the reading is still too high, consider the temp your brew has been fermenting at. If your brew temp has exceeded 30 deg C, your yeast is likely dead and will no longer work. At this point, you could try adding a new yeast to restart the ferment, but if your brew temp has killed the yeast you are likely to get off flavours and may not be worth continuing with. If your brew temps have been within the correct range, your ferment may have stalled. We suggest you give your brew a light stir (with a sanitised spoon) to get your yeast back into suspension. Replace the fermenter lid, and hopefully this will re activate your ferment. If this doesn’t work, try adding a new yeast to your brew. Q: I FOUND AN OLD HOME BREW TIN THAT IS PAST ITS BEST BY DATE, WILL IT STILL WORK? A: If the can is sealed, then the malt extract inside will be ok to brew. however, the yeast under the lid will be dead, so you’ll need to use a fresh yeast. Also, malt extract darkens over time. If the tin is a dark beer or stout you won’t have any problems. If the tin is for a light-coloured beer, expect the finished product to be much darker than expected. It should still ferment ok with a new yeast, but really why risk all that work, cleaning, sanitising and filling 30 bottles, waiting for them to condition.it may be better to just buy a new tin! Q: CAN I MAKE A BIG BATCH OF MORGAN’S NO RINSE SANITISER, AND USE OVER A PERIOD OF TIME? A: Short answerNO! The Morgan’s No Rinse Sanitiser is a Hydrogen Peroxide based sanitiser, which means once it’s been mixed with water it needs to be used within a few days. Ideally it needs to be used immediately, as its effectiveness starts to decrease straight away. We suggest you make only what you need for your brew day and use a spray bottle to apply the sanitiser to everything that will come in contact with your brew, including your bench top. It’s ok if your brewing equipment is still wet with the sanitiser as it turns to water soon after application. Q: FERMENTATION HAS FINISHED (my hydrometer says so!) BUT THE BREW LOOKS CLOUDY. IS THIS OK? A: This is perfectly normal. Once you have bottled your beer it still needs at least 3 weeks before drinking, so the beer will start to clear during this time. When you refrigerate the bottles prior to drinking, the cold temp will clear the beer even further and sediment will settle on the bottom of the bottle. Always try to pour from the bottle as smoothly as you can. If the beer glugs (sorry, I couldn’t come up with a better word. You get it right?) from the bottle, it will stir up the sediment and you’ll get it in your glass. Don’t worry if it does this, it’s just spent yeast and is actually good for you! Q: I WANT TO BREW A LOW ALCOHOL BEER. HOW DO I DO THIS? A: All of the Morgan’s range can be brewed at any ABV% you prefer, all you need to do is adjust the amount of sugars or malts you add to the brew. For example, any Morgan’s tin brewed to 23 ltrs with no added fermentables (dextrose or malt) will give you around 2.5% ABV. If you prefer mid strength 3.5% ABV, simply add 500g of fermentables to your brew. Q: HOW DO I CALCULATE MY ALCOHOL %? A: We thought you might ask this! There are several calculations that can be used, and all of them need your hydrometer readings from the start and finish of your brews. These are called Starting Gravity (SG) and Finishing Gravity (FG). This is how we calculate the alcohol % SG FG / 7.36 Example 1040 1010 = 30 30 / 7.36 = 4.07% (if bottling + 0.5 for secondary fermentation/carbonation in bottle) Q: CAN I ADD PLAIN WHITE SUGAR TO MY BREW? A: You can, but you shouldn’t! Remember your Dad’s or Granddad’s horrible home brew efforts? Yep, they used plain white sugar in their brews! Plain sugar will ferment and give you alcohol but will also give you that old time home brew taste that we are all trying to avoid. We recommend Dextrose as a minimum, but the more malt you use in your beers, the closer you will get to recreating your favorite commercial beer. Visit your local Home Brew Shop to discuss what you need for your brews. Q: I SEE DIFFERENT BREW BLENDS IN STORES, WHAT ARE THE DIFFERENCES BETWEEN THEM? A: The different brew blends you see all allow you to brew exactly the way you want to brew. Some Home Brew stores pack their own blends, so they can differ from store to store, so we’ll give you a run down on the Morgan’s but ours don’t differ too far from most stores. Generally, 1kg of each of our blends will give you a full strength beer of 4-4.5% Dextrose is a powdered form of corn sugar that is added to brews simply to create alcohol. Beers brewed with a tin and just dextrose tend to be quite thin or watery and have little body. You’ll also find these beers won’t hold a head for very long. But it gives you booze! Body Blend is a blend of Dextrose and Maltodextrin (also from corn or maize). Maltodextrin is unfermentable so won’t add booze (boo!) but will add body to your beer, so you’ll get better mouthfeel and head retention. Booster Blend is also Dextrose and Maltodextrin, but we’ve now added some Light Dried Malt which does ferment (adds boozeyeah!) but will also add flavour. More flavour is good! Ultra Blend is the same as our Booster Blend but with more Light Dried Malt than Dextrose and Maltodextrin. More Malt = More Flavour, More Body, More Head! Light Dried Malt is just that, nothing else. Q: THERE'S A FREE PACKET OF YEAST WITH MY TIN, WHY WOULD I NEED TO BUY A DIFFERENT YEAST? A: Just like there many different beer styles on the market, there are many different strains of yeast to produce those beer styles. The yeast we provide with the Morgan’s tins is a generic Ale yeast that will work reliably in many different conditions, and basically will ferment your beer. Different specialty yeasts can dramatically change the way your beer tastes, so you have the option to choose which specialty yeast to use for the beer you want to make. Q: I WANT TO ADD HOPS TO MY BREW, HOW DO I USE THEM? A: Adding hops to your brew is a brilliant way to create the type of beer that you want. Similar to specialty yeasts, different hops will give you different flavours and characteristics to your beer. For example, traditional styles like Lagers, Pilsners and Ales generally have mild hop characteristics, while newer styles like Pale Ales and IPAs are very hop driven and require lots of hop character. To achieve a mild hop characteristic, we recommend steeping a small amount of hops in boiling water and adding them at the start of your brew. For this Morgan’s supply a variety of 12g packs sealed in a mesh bag to use like a teabag. If you prefer big hop characteristics (Pale Ales & IPAs etc) we suggest you add your hops in much greater quantities on around day 4 or 5 of your ferment. You guessed it, we have a product for that too! Morgan’s 50g packs of hops is what you need here. These are loose hop pellets, so it’s best if you use a larger mesh type (muslin) bag or cloth that will contain your hops and make clean up easy. Check out www.morgansbrewing.com.au/recipes for some recipe examples, but remember that everyone’s tastes are different and you might prefer more or less hops that what we suggest. We hope this helps you all out, but if you have any other questions just shoot us a message and we’ll get back to you as soon as we can. Cheers! #homebrew #morgansbrewingco #craftbeer #makegreatbeer

04.01.2022 On a gluten free diet but love beer? I've got the solution for you! Give me a call or send me a message if you have any questions or alternatively pop in and see me!

03.01.2022 HOME BREW FAQ Here at Morgan’s HQ we love helping home brewers #makegreatbeer at home, and we love it when our customers reach out to us for some help (seriousl...y, we do!). From time to time we might be busy on weekends or evenings and can’t get to your questions right away which is probably when you are brewing and need an answer, so we’ve put together a list of answers to some of the frequently asked questions we get sent. This way you can keep brewing with confidence that you’re on the right path. Fear not though, we’re still here to help if these aren’t the answers to your questions! Just when we’ve finished our Sunday naps! Q: AIRLOCK NOT BUBBLING. I’ve put my brew down as per the instructions, and several days in, my airlock is not bubbling. A: Don’t worry if your airlock is not bubbling as expected. Your brew is more than likely fermenting normally. The most common reason for this is the CO2 being produced is escaping the fermenter from a gap in the lid seal. Nothing can get into your fermenter due to the positive pressure being produced. Try loosening the lid and resealing itbut not too tight Muscles, ok. DO NOT TAKE THE LID OFF! Your brew is actively fermenting, and anything that gets in now will stuff it well and truly! If you can see activity on the surface of your brew, and condensation under the lid, your brew is fermenting normally so leave it alone! If you’re still unsure, take a hydrometer reading. This should show a reading lower than what you saw when you put the brew down. NOTE Your hydrometer readings are the ONLY way of knowing when your brew is fully fermented! Only bottle your beer when your hydrometer readings are the same over 2 consecutive days! Don’t rely on your airlock! Q: WHEN DO I KNOW IF MY BREW IS READY TO BOTTLE OR KEG? A: Generally, after around 7 days, your brew should be close to ready. BUT. the fermenting temperature will largely dictate on how long your brew takes to ferment. The hotter the ferment The shorter ferment time. The cooler the ferment The longer ferment time. Be patient during this time and don’t assume your brew is finished when the airlock stops bubbling. It’s quite ok to leave your precious brew in the fermenter for 2 weeks. Once fermentation finishes the yeast continues to work by cleaning up elements of the brew that can cause off flavours you don’t want. Only bottle when the ferment is finished! NOTE Your hydrometer readings are the ONLY way of knowing when your brew is fully fermented! Only bottle your beer when your hydrometer readings are the same over 2 consecutive days! Don’t rely on your airlock! Q: WHAT HAPPENS IF I BOTTLE MY BEER BEFORE ITS FINISHED FERMENTING? A: If your brew hasn’t finished fermenting, it will still contain too much unfermented sugar. If you bottle early, the remaining yeast will not only convert your priming sugar (carbonation drops etc.) into CO2, but also the unfermented sugar in your brew. At best this will result in heavily over carbonated beer (i.e. a glass full of foam!), at worst your bottles could explode! Believe us, you don’t want this!! NOTE Your hydrometer readings are the ONLY way of knowing when your brew is fully fermented! Only bottle your beer when your hydrometer readings are the same over 2 consecutive days! Don’t rely on your airlock! Sorry to harp on about this But Don’t rely on your airlock! Q: WHAT TEMPERATURE SHOULD I FERMENT MY BREW AT? A: This depends on what style of beer you are making, and which yeast you are using. Ale yeasts ferment best at higher temperatures (18-30 Deg C), and Lager yeast work best at low temps (9-15 Deg C), so needs temperature control to brew correctly. We supply Ale yeast with all of our Morgan’s tins as most new home brewers don’t have the ability to brew at Lager temps, and can only brew at the higher range. We recommend Ale yeast ideally be fermented between 18-22 Deg C. Higher temps will still work but will produce off flavours that aren’t consistent with how your beer should taste. Temps over 30 deg C will kill the yeast cells, and your brew will fail to ferment. If you live in a cold climate and your brew temp drops too low, the yeast will effectively go to sleep. It will reawaken when the temps rise again and continue to ferment. In this event we recommend a heat pad or belt that will allow you to maintain the correct temps throughout the ferment. If you prefer using a specialist yeast that you’ve purchased, refer to the packet and ensure your temps stay within the range specified. NOTE For absolute best results, and consistency the temps you ferment at should not fluctuate too far. Try to keep your temps within a couple of degrees of your target temp. Speak to you local Home Brew Store about the temp control options they have in stock. For example, the Cool Brewing Fermenter Cooler Bag which eliminates the need for a dedicated brewing fridge. Q: MY BREW ISN’T FERMENTING. My brew has been down for a week, and my hydrometer readings are still too high. A: When you draw some wort from the fermenter tap for a hydrometer reading, always discard the first 20-30 ml. As your brew ferments, spent yeast drops out of the brew and settles on the bottom of your fermenter. Some of this sediment can settle in your tap and sediment reducer. The presence of this sediment in your sample for testing will affect the gravity and show a higher reading than is actually the case. If you think the reading is still too high, consider the temp your brew has been fermenting at. If your brew temp has exceeded 30 deg C, your yeast is likely dead and will no longer work. At this point, you could try adding a new yeast to restart the ferment, but if your brew temp has killed the yeast you are likely to get off flavours and may not be worth continuing with. If your brew temps have been within the correct range, your ferment may have stalled. We suggest you give your brew a light stir (with a sanitised spoon) to get your yeast back into suspension. Replace the fermenter lid, and hopefully this will re activate your ferment. If this doesn’t work, try adding a new yeast to your brew. Q: I FOUND AN OLD HOME BREW TIN THAT IS PAST ITS BEST BY DATE, WILL IT STILL WORK? A: If the can is sealed, then the malt extract inside will be ok to brew. however, the yeast under the lid will be dead, so you’ll need to use a fresh yeast. Also, malt extract darkens over time. If the tin is a dark beer or stout you won’t have any problems. If the tin is for a light-coloured beer, expect the finished product to be much darker than expected. It should still ferment ok with a new yeast, but really why risk all that work, cleaning, sanitising and filling 30 bottles, waiting for them to condition.it may be better to just buy a new tin! Q: CAN I MAKE A BIG BATCH OF MORGAN’S NO RINSE SANITISER, AND USE OVER A PERIOD OF TIME? A: Short answerNO! The Morgan’s No Rinse Sanitiser is a Hydrogen Peroxide based sanitiser, which means once it’s been mixed with water it needs to be used within a few days. Ideally it needs to be used immediately, as its effectiveness starts to decrease straight away. We suggest you make only what you need for your brew day and use a spray bottle to apply the sanitiser to everything that will come in contact with your brew, including your bench top. It’s ok if your brewing equipment is still wet with the sanitiser as it turns to water soon after application. Q: FERMENTATION HAS FINISHED (my hydrometer says so!) BUT THE BREW LOOKS CLOUDY. IS THIS OK? A: This is perfectly normal. Once you have bottled your beer it still needs at least 3 weeks before drinking, so the beer will start to clear during this time. When you refrigerate the bottles prior to drinking, the cold temp will clear the beer even further and sediment will settle on the bottom of the bottle. Always try to pour from the bottle as smoothly as you can. If the beer glugs (sorry, I couldn’t come up with a better word. You get it right?) from the bottle, it will stir up the sediment and you’ll get it in your glass. Don’t worry if it does this, it’s just spent yeast and is actually good for you! Q: I WANT TO BREW A LOW ALCOHOL BEER. HOW DO I DO THIS? A: All of the Morgan’s range can be brewed at any ABV% you prefer, all you need to do is adjust the amount of sugars or malts you add to the brew. For example, any Morgan’s tin brewed to 23 ltrs with no added fermentables (dextrose or malt) will give you around 2.5% ABV. If you prefer mid strength 3.5% ABV, simply add 500g of fermentables to your brew. Q: HOW DO I CALCULATE MY ALCOHOL %? A: We thought you might ask this! There are several calculations that can be used, and all of them need your hydrometer readings from the start and finish of your brews. These are called Starting Gravity (SG) and Finishing Gravity (FG). This is how we calculate the alcohol % SG FG / 7.36 Example 1040 1010 = 30 30 / 7.36 = 4.07% (if bottling + 0.5 for secondary fermentation/carbonation in bottle) Q: CAN I ADD PLAIN WHITE SUGAR TO MY BREW? A: You can, but you shouldn’t! Remember your Dad’s or Granddad’s horrible home brew efforts? Yep, they used plain white sugar in their brews! Plain sugar will ferment and give you alcohol but will also give you that old time home brew taste that we are all trying to avoid. We recommend Dextrose as a minimum, but the more malt you use in your beers, the closer you will get to recreating your favorite commercial beer. Visit your local Home Brew Shop to discuss what you need for your brews. Q: I SEE DIFFERENT BREW BLENDS IN STORES, WHAT ARE THE DIFFERENCES BETWEEN THEM? A: The different brew blends you see all allow you to brew exactly the way you want to brew. Some Home Brew stores pack their own blends, so they can differ from store to store, so we’ll give you a run down on the Morgan’s but ours don’t differ too far from most stores. Generally, 1kg of each of our blends will give you a full strength beer of 4-4.5% Dextrose is a powdered form of corn sugar that is added to brews simply to create alcohol. Beers brewed with a tin and just dextrose tend to be quite thin or watery and have little body. You’ll also find these beers won’t hold a head for very long. But it gives you booze! Body Blend is a blend of Dextrose and Maltodextrin (also from corn or maize). Maltodextrin is unfermentable so won’t add booze (boo!) but will add body to your beer, so you’ll get better mouthfeel and head retention. Booster Blend is also Dextrose and Maltodextrin, but we’ve now added some Light Dried Malt which does ferment (adds boozeyeah!) but will also add flavour. More flavour is good! Ultra Blend is the same as our Booster Blend but with more Light Dried Malt than Dextrose and Maltodextrin. More Malt = More Flavour, More Body, More Head! Light Dried Malt is just that, nothing else. Q: THERE'S A FREE PACKET OF YEAST WITH MY TIN, WHY WOULD I NEED TO BUY A DIFFERENT YEAST? A: Just like there many different beer styles on the market, there are many different strains of yeast to produce those beer styles. The yeast we provide with the Morgan’s tins is a generic Ale yeast that will work reliably in many different conditions, and basically will ferment your beer. Different specialty yeasts can dramatically change the way your beer tastes, so you have the option to choose which specialty yeast to use for the beer you want to make. Q: I WANT TO ADD HOPS TO MY BREW, HOW DO I USE THEM? A: Adding hops to your brew is a brilliant way to create the type of beer that you want. Similar to specialty yeasts, different hops will give you different flavours and characteristics to your beer. For example, traditional styles like Lagers, Pilsners and Ales generally have mild hop characteristics, while newer styles like Pale Ales and IPAs are very hop driven and require lots of hop character. To achieve a mild hop characteristic, we recommend steeping a small amount of hops in boiling water and adding them at the start of your brew. For this Morgan’s supply a variety of 12g packs sealed in a mesh bag to use like a teabag. If you prefer big hop characteristics (Pale Ales & IPAs etc) we suggest you add your hops in much greater quantities on around day 4 or 5 of your ferment. You guessed it, we have a product for that too! Morgan’s 50g packs of hops is what you need here. These are loose hop pellets, so it’s best if you use a larger mesh type (muslin) bag or cloth that will contain your hops and make clean up easy. Check out www.morgansbrewing.com.au/recipes for some recipe examples, but remember that everyone’s tastes are different and you might prefer more or less hops that what we suggest. We hope this helps you all out, but if you have any other questions just shoot us a message and we’ll get back to you as soon as we can. Cheers! #homebrew #morgansbrewingco #craftbeer #makegreatbeer

03.01.2022 Better late than never - Mangrove Jack's Recipe of the Month

01.01.2022 For anyone out there thinking of making fresh homemade tomato sauce, beer or cider. Asquith Home Brewing have plenty of 750ml Amber Crown Top Beer Bottles in stock. They come packaged in cartons of 12 bottles for $19.50