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Finger Strength

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23.01.2022 MEV, MAV, and MRV - Common terms in strength sports, these mean Min Effective Volume, Max Adaptive Volume and Max Recoverable Volume. At least 3 times (and likely no more than 5 times) you want to hit enough volume in your training to elicit a training affect (adaption). Without a sufficient level of stress, the only adaptations are technical, and you haven’t got stronger. What this means in the real world, is if you are projecting, getting shut down early on a climb or on slab, you may have not done enough that day to increase your finger strength. Remember on these days, 15 minutes on a finger board doing repeaters could be a factor in sending the next project!

22.01.2022 No matter the strength of your fingers, you can still drive more optimally from your legs. It’s a mistake in your warm up to pull hard on jugs and large holds, instead of climbing the intended beta (and using your lower body). A useful process is to use fingerboards to warm up your fingers, and try to use easier climbs to warm up your lower body and open up hips. Climbing slab without hands or minimal hands is great for this.

16.01.2022 Repeaters (generally 7 seconds on, 3 seconds off) are a tactic to increase neural recruitment AND build hypertrophy (muscular size) in the finger strength musculature. If you are doing 7:3 at 70% of max hang, you would be aiming for 6 sets of 6 reps. The first 4 reps should NOT be killing you, and only the last one should you be barely hanging on. You are looking to build your anaerobic capacity AND create a training effect. You know you are doing this right when your forearms are sore the next day (they should have delay onset muscular soreness DOMS). Stick to 3 minutes between sets, stick to 6 sets. Many people are guilty of overloading and not getting through the sets. If needed, go back to 50% of max hang and work your way up!

14.01.2022 The dry fire is a huge cause of injuries (and a huge flash of pain). For new climbers, it’s the reach for a hold, and when compressing, your fingers sliding quickly off and closing into each other. On any rail, pinch or likely candidate that you will reach out to, it is always prudent to -Give it a big brushing - Give it a test hang If you are climbing indoor, don’t be the person that leaves holds covered in chalk. Give them a brush post your session

14.01.2022 Modern physiotherapy calls for loaded on post injury joints, to assist in the healing process. For many of us, going to a climbing gym would be too much temptation, so an at home set up is perfect for prehab, rehab and active recovery. Those benefits are beyond actual strength training!