Macarthur Performance Horses in Port Macquarie, New South Wales | Horse riding school

Macarthur Performance Horses

Locality: Port Macquarie, New South Wales

Phone: +61 408 230 257

Address: Lake Innes Drive 2444 Port Macquarie, NSW, Australia

Website: https://www.macarthurperformancehorses.com

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25.01.2022 Petal and her baby Blossom CP Penthouse Pet X Heza Classy Chassy

24.01.2022 FYI to those who travel through pennant hills. No livestock permitted in tunnel.

23.01.2022 Checkout what our pals at ranvet have going on!

23.01.2022 Macarthur Performance Horses updated sale list as of October 2020 PM or email [email protected] for further information! Embryos: ... VitalSignsRBlazing X Smoochin due in 6-8 weeks. We have quite a few people interested for this cross! CP Penthouse Pet X Heza Classy Chassy due in January. This mare is offered for sale in foal or can separate after weaning. Yearlings: MPH Gotta Be Krymsun Barbra Krysand X Gotta Be A Huntin 2019 Solid Bay PHAA Colt From multiple NPHA etc champion allround mare. Great legged, really nice futurity and non pro prospect. $7,500 MPH Lazy On Sunday Diamonds Are Forever X Lopin Lazy 2019 Chestnut Overo Filly Stunning, smart and great legged. Will make a very nice futurity or non pro all round horse and great breeder down the line. Sire is WC and WC producer! $8,000 2s: MPH Lazy Lover Circle K Peppered Love X CP Sure Ta Be Layzee 2018 Solid Bay PHAA Gelding From a multiple NPHA etc champion producing mare by NPHA etc champion stud. Super nice non pro prospect for the allround or futurities $7,500 4s: MPH Radical Love Circle K Peppered Love X Radical Signs R Good 2016 Colored Bay PHAA Colt Lightly started and showing great potential as a competitive allround horse or non pro horse, would make a very nice stud horse with his great body and mind. $8,500 5s: CP Penthouse Pet Kulgoa Liberty Trail X HF Somethin Hot 2014 Bay AQHA Mare In foal to Heza Classy Chassy, listed above in the embryo category. $8,000

21.01.2022 We have decided to offer MPH Lil Martini for sale! Unfortunately we can’t keep them all, and I really don’t need 3 stud horses. He is the one and only The Best... Martini in Australia and out of Multiple NPHA, State, National etc Champion in the Open, Non Pro AND Youth divisions Winderadeen Lil White Lie. Mango is 3yo Colt, unstarted, and will only sell to the best of show or breeding homes! PM me for further info and price. See more

20.01.2022 Immune mediated myositis (IMM) is a new addition to the recommended tests for horses that would usually use the QH 5-panel. This includes Quarter Horses, Paints..., Appaloosas, Quarter Ponies and any other breeds with some Quarter Horse bloodlines. The primary sign of IMM is fast and severe muscle loss along the top line. It usually occurs 3-4 weeks after a strangles infection or after vaccinations. The horse will also be stiff, depressed, feverish and show loss of appetite. IMM is most common in horses under the age of eight, or over 17. It affects both male and female horses. Horses with two copies of the IMM gene are more likely to have an episode - or multiple episodes - than horses with one copy of the gene. Horses without the IMM gene are not susceptible to IMM. #quarterhorse #IMM #paints #quarterponies #appaloosas #immunemediatedmyositis There is a one time sample processing fee of $40 per horse and the IMM test is $14. Click here to order the IMM test for your horse http://practicalhorsegenetics.com.au/index.php?test=imm

20.01.2022 MPH Radical Love is still for sale at a reduced price!!! 4YO Bay Overo Colt from MULTIPLE NPHA, Sizzler, National, State etc champion mare Circle K Peppered Lo...ve by Radical Signs R Good. Lightly started, will make a great stud horse or show horse with or without nuts! Reduced to 7800 See more

18.01.2022 From January 1st 2021 I will no longer be training or teaching as a professional. I will begin the long 3 year detox period on my way back to becoming a Non Pro once again! I’m excited to begin the journey back to being a Non Pro so I can compete in my favorite events again, and get back to having fun with my horses and friends when I show. I’m also excited because it means I will be able to finally compete where I belong in the Non Pro at the reining shows. To have to compete as a NRHA professional when I really didn’t want to sucked and has played a big part in my decision. Thanks to those who chose to support me, and thanks to those who have allowed me the opportunity to help them grow as riders and horse owners.

18.01.2022 MPH Gotta Be Krymsun is for sale! Reduced to 7500 From Multiple NPHA, State etc Champion Barbra Krysand by Gotta Be A Huntin. Captain is a yearling solid PHAA colt. His two older unshown brothers are superstars and this one will be too! Great futurity and allround prospect.

17.01.2022 Sunday funday MPH Simply the Best

15.01.2022 Hallie sends congrats to her baby Rad!

14.01.2022 What is the longest a horse can safely go without food? More and more I see horses and ponies stood for long periods of time with no hay or haylage. Usually un...der the guise of a weight control diet. So how long can a horse be without food before damage is done? And what damage is done? For those with a short attention span, I’ll give you the answer to begin with - 4 hours, maximum. Why? Horses are grazers. They are designed to eat constantly. They have no way of storing their acids and digestive enzymes, they’ve never needed to. They have no gall bladder to store bile and their stomachs release acid constantly, whether or not there is food in the stomach and intestines. A horses stomach only holds approximately 8-15 litres. Depending on the substance eaten, it takes on average 4-6 hours for the stomach to completely empty. After this, the acids and enzymes start to digest the inside of the horses stomach and then the intestines. This causes both gastric and intestinal ulceration. It has been estimated that 25-50% of foals and 60-90% of adult horses suffer from ulceration. But I won’t go into detail about this, there is a lot of information around about ulcers. So is that it? Are ulcers the only concern? No, having an empty stomach is a stress situation for a horse. The longer they are starved, the more they release stress hormones, cortisol predominantly. Cortisol blocks insulin and causes a constantly high blood glucose level. This stimulates the body to release even more insulin, and in turn this causes fat tissue to be deposited and leptin resistance. Over time this causes insulin resistance (Equine Metabolic Syndrome). All of these mechanisms are well known risk factors for laminitis and are caused by short term starvation (starting roughly 3-4 hours after the stomach empties). Starving a laminitic is literally the worst thing you can do. Over longer periods, this also starts to affect muscle and can cause weakness, and a lack of stamina so performance horses also need a constant supply of hay/haylage to function optimally. Let’s not forget horses are living, breathing and feeling animals. We talk about this stress reaction like it’s just internal but the horse is well aware of this stress. Door kicking, box walking, barging and many other stable vices and poor behaviour can be explained by a very stressed horse due to food deprivation (we all have that Hangry friend to explain this reaction). Next time you shout or hit a horse that dives for their net, remember their body is genuinely telling them they are going to starve to death. They know no different. But surely they spend the night asleep so they wouldn’t eat anyway? Not true. Horses only need 20mins REM sleep every 24 hours (jealous? I am!). They may spend a further hour or so dozing but up to 22-23 hours a day are spent eating. So if you leave your horse a net at 5pm and it’s gone by 8pm, then by 12am their stomach is empty. By 4am they are entering starvation mode. By their next feed at 8am, they are extremely stressed, physically and mentally. Now I know the cob owners are reading this mortified. I can almost hear you shouting at your screen if I feed my horse ad lib hay he won’t fit out the stable door in a week!! I will say that a horse with a constant supply of hay/haylage will eat far less then the same horse that is intermittently starved. They don’t eat in a frenzy, reducing the chance of colic from both ulcers and over eating. Cobs included. However I’m not suggesting you sit your cob in front of a bale of haylage and say have at it! There is a difference between ad lib and a constant supply. There is much we can do to reduce calorie intake and control weight whilst feeding a constant supply. The easiest is small holes nets. There are many. Trickle nets, greedy feeders, nibbleze, trawler nets etc. My personal favourite is the Shires Soft Mesh 1. They don’t cost the Earth, they are easy to fill and they don’t have knots so are much gentler to the teeth. Now often I suggest these types of nets to owners and the owner tells me Oh no, *** won’t eat out of those this is nonsense. If he was left it, he would. Remember, you can give a normal net and one of these for them to nibble at after. Better than leaving them with nothing at all. A few other tricks, hang the net from the ceiling/rafters, it’s harder to eat out of a net that swings. Soak the hay, a minimum of 4 hours to be effective. Mix with straw but be sure to introduce the straw slowly and make sure it’s top quality and a palatable type eg Barley or Oat, otherwise they won’t eat it. Don’t forget exercise. The best way to get weight off a horse is exercise. Enough exercise and they can eat what they want! And lay off the bucket feed and treats! Horses on a diet require a vit/min supplement in the form of a balancer but that’s it. The odd slice of carrot or suede won’t do any harm but no licks, treats, treacle, molasses, cereal based rubbish. Even if it says low sugar or the marvellously misleading No added sugar! Your horse would rather have a constant supply of hay, I promise. Written by Vikki Fowler BVetMed BAEDT MRCVS A few edits for the critics- Firstly, feeding a constant supply does not mean ad lib feeding. It means use some ingenuity and spread the recommended amount of daily forage so the horse is never stood with out food for more than 4 hours. I am not promoting obesity, quite the opposite, feeding like this reduces obesity and IR. This can be done whilst feeding your horse twice a day as most horse owners do. Just think outside the box for your own situation. Secondly I am in the UK and this post is UK specific, use some common sense when reading. Yes in warmer climates, soaking hay for 4 hours is dangerous and studies show 1 hour is plenty in hot weather but in the UK’s arctic climate, a minimum of 4 hours is required. Equally the UK feed exclusively grass hay. I can not comment on other types. Thirdly, yes every horse/pony and situation is different, but this is a law of nature and all horses have this anatomy and metabolism. How you achieve this constant supply is individual, the need for it is not. Fourthly, the use of hay nets in the UK is very very high. I’d estimate 95% of horses I see are fed this way and very very few have incisor wear or neck/back issues as a result. Yes, feeding from the ground is ideal, but a constant supply, I feel trumps this. Again with ingenuity both can be safely achieved. Finally, straw can be fed to horses safely, introduced very slowly, with fresh water always available, plus a palatable and digestible type of straw which will depend on your area. Again many horses in the UK are bedded on straw and most of them eat it. This is not a new concept to us.

13.01.2022 Ribbons are cool. But ribbons don’t compare to how cool it is to be able put a halter on your own horse, to pick his feet, to brush him, to put your saddle on ...him, to put your show clothes and chaps on... ...to practice with your equine partner, to go in and show your work, to compete alongside amazing people, to laugh with friends and make new friendships at shows... To untack your horse, bathe him, to blanket him, to give him a treat and tell him good boy... And to know that you get to do the one thing that makes you happiest in life with an animal that you get to love, grow with, and compete on. Being able to say I have this amazing horse and am surrounded by my amazing team and other phenomenal people at shows is way cooler than any ribbon. : Official American Paint Horse Association

13.01.2022 Happy new year! As we step into the new year I will be taking some time off riding which will allow me to settle into and concentrate on my new full time jo...b. Because of this, we’re going to lower the prices on our few sale horses to as low as they can go. This is an outstanding group of National quality proespects at donkey prices!!!! Yearlings: MPH Gotta Be Krymsun Barbra Krysand X Gotta Be A Huntin 2019 Solid Bay PHAA Gelding From multiple NPHA etc champion allround mare. Great legged, really nice futurity and non pro prospect! REDUCED TO $6,000 Inc Gst MPH Lazy On Sunday Diamonds Are Forever X Lopin Lazy 2019 Chestnut Overo Filly Stunning, smart and great legged. Will make a very nice futurity or non pro all round horse and great breeder down the line. Sire is WC and WC producer! REDUCED TO $6,500 INC GST 2s: MPH Lazy Lover Circle K Peppered Love X CP Sure Ta Be Layzee 2018 Solid Bay PHAA Gelding From a multiple NPHA etc champion producing mare by NPHA etc champion stud. Super nice non pro prospect for the allround or futurities! REDUCED TO $6,000 INC GST 4s: MPH Radical Love Circle K Peppered Love X Radical Signs R Good 2016 Colored Bay PHAA Colt From multiple NPHA etc champion producing mare by a multiple NPHA etc champion! Lightly started and showing great potential as a competitive allround horse or non pro horse, would make a very nice stud horse with his great body and mind. REDUCED TO $6,000 INC GST

08.01.2022 We’ve helped hundreds of horses find new best friends over the years... But more so, we’ve answered thousands of inquiries. I’ll say it again like I say every ...year, in case someone out there needs to hear this... HOW TO FIND YOUR UNICORN 1. PARAMETERS: Sticking to your parameters is only hurting your search. This is like when you have a friend who says they’ll only date a guy over 6 feet tall. Would you turn down meeting your soul mate because he’s 5’11? I’ve learned from many good Horsemen over the years and the saying is true: God never made a good horse in a bad color. The number of times that people are looking for a precise height or a precise color and I think I have the perfect match for them to fulfill all their dreams, but they won’t budge 1 inch on height in either direction. I can tell you that my current 17 hand horse feels much smaller than my current 15.3h horse. It’s much more about their barrel and their neck set and then the height of their withers. Stop looking for the horse that is 5-7 years old 16.2-17.0h bay or grey gelding. You are only sabotaging your own search here. 2. WRONG QUESTIONS: When people call about horses, I tell them what kind of rider he needs and what the horse wants to do for a living. Why does NO ONE ever ask that?! They ask how fancy his trot is or how his dressage score was last weekend or how many ribbons he has or how tall he is. They don’t ever ask, Will he tolerate my mistakes? Will he make up where I’m lacking? Can I handle this horse? Does he have the same goals that I do? 3. WRONG PRIORITIES: I always teach my students this lesson. My keeper horse as a 4yo was the worst mover in the barn. Choppy trot, canter like a tractor trailer on ice, pads on his feet, and some seriously unimpressive knees. If I pulled him out of the stall for you at a sales appointment at 4 years old, you would tell me to put him away! Then he won 3 events at 5yo. At 6 he’s a dream to ride because we’ve put in serious sweat equity for three years. I’m going to burst your bubble here. Unless you’re trying to literally win the Olympics, you don’t need the best mover in the barn. Find the horse that makes you SMILE, that you want to ride every day, the one you can train. Beyond that, you can teach it to win the dressage if you work hard enough. Heck, the worst mover I’ve ever owned won a dozen upper level events and got our Bronze Medal in dressage, and if you saw him today you’d swear that was the best canter you’ve ever ridden. When you’re shopping, don’t buy for the fancy trot. Find the horse that makes you smile. 4. MAINTENANCE: The number of people who put in search ads, absolutely no maintenance or ask me if he has to wear shoes. So you’re telling me if I can find you your perfect unicorn that will make you happy for the rest of his life and you have to give him hock injections once a year, you wouldn’t do it? Because that’s about what you’re spending on your Starbucks this month. If you find a horse that will take care of you, you need to take care of it. Period. 5. VETTINGS: It’s been said by a million people so I’ll keep it brief. Vettings are a fact finding mission, not an attempt to rule out every horse you meet. No one can predict the future-I’ve had upper level horses that would have failed as 4yos who never missed an event in their lives. I’ve seen vets give two thumbs up to horses who dropped dead a week later from a heart problem. Vets are our greatest resource, but they aren’t fortune tellers. Any good vetting WILL find something. Have your trainer help you understand what is realistic when the vet jargon sounds scary. Here’s hoping that this list helps someone searching somewhere. Because I know over the years in my career, if I had stuck to my parameters and broken my rules, I would not have bought any of my eventual upper level horses. I would have missed out on so many special horses in my life, because I didn’t want a 3yo or I didn’t want him to be 15.3h or his ankles aren’t pretty. When you find a horse that you like to ride and it makes you happy, that’s really all that matters. Photo by Canter Clix

07.01.2022 But this horse was advertised as beginner safe! If you spend any time on horse message boards or social media, you’ve read stories about horses that were sol...d to someone as beginner safe and then, within a few months, started offloading their riders regularly, became hard to handle, stopped doing things they used to do peacefully, etc. Frequently the new owner posts to complain that the previous owner must have drugged the horse, because they don’t understand any other way that the calm, mellow packer they tried out has now turned into a nightmare. I’m not going to say that the drugging of sale horses doesn’t go on, but it is more rare than all the stories would have you believe. But, generally, this is what happens when a very mellow calm pony (or any other kind of horse!) is sold to a beginner home and things don’t go well and the only drugs involved are the painkillers the New Owner ends up needing to take! 1. New Owner changes the horse’s entire lifestyle. He was living in a pasture in Wyoming, and now he’s living in a box stall in Los Angeles. He goes from eating unlimited quantities of grass and plentiful hay to the typical boarding barn’s 2 or 3 flakes a day. Then, when he starts to lose weight, New Owner compensates for the lack of hay by adding more and more grain. Doesn’t really matter what kind oats, corn, sweet feed, even senior feed can and will crank up a horse’s energy level. Also, lots of grain and not enough quality forage combined with stall life can cause ulcers to flare up. 2. Old Owner had horse on a serious exercise regimen. The horse got ridden most days, hard enough to work up a sweat. As a result, anyone could hop on him with a lead rope and pony four more without issue. New Owner doesn’t really want to pay for a groom or exercise rider and thinks he can just ride the horse himself, but he misses Wednesday because of Lisa’s birthday party and Thursday because he has to work late, and Sunday because his buddy comes to town unexpectedly. And so on Because the horse is boarded, the horse stands in a 12 x 12 box getting progressively more irritated. 3. New Owner comes out to ride. The horse doesn’t want to pick up his foot, so after a struggle, New Owner decides that hoof does not really need to be picked. The horse starts to get pushy to lead, because he’s been in the stall for 2 days and he’s eager to move. New Owner permits the pushiness; the horse stops leading nicely and starts circling around New Owner or dragging him around like a kite. New Owner goes to tack up the horse and cranks up the girth tight all at once, something Old Owner, who was more experienced, knew better than to do. Horse flies backwards and breaks the cross ties. Now New Owner starts to become fearful of the horse. New Owner goes to get him out of the stall and the horse swings his butt to New Owner and threatens him. New Owner gives up and leaves and the horse sits in the stall yet another day. 4. When New Owner finally does manage to get the horse out for a ride, New Owner doesn’t understand why the horse has become pushy and resistant. New Owner doesn’t start by turning the horse out or longeing; he just hops right on. Maybe he pokes the horse in the side good and hard with his toe as he mounts, or kicks him in the butt accidentally with his right leg, either of which can lead to a wreck before the ride has even begun. If he gets on successfully, the horse is a whooooole lot more horse under saddle than he was when he tried him out, due to the confinement and diet changes. New Owner doesn’t call Old Owner yet. Nor does New Owner consult with a competent trainer in his discipline. New Owner allows himself to get advice from everyone he doesn’t have to pay, including the boarding barn’s official busybody who likes to give everybody unsolicited training advice, a couple of Natural Horsemanship followers who think all of these issues can be solved by playing games and, of course, everybody on his Facebook. The end result is that New Owner buys a $150 bit and $300 worth of training videos. 5. But none of that helps. In fact, the $150 bit leads to a new behavior rearing! Now New Owner is good and scared but not willing to quit just yet. He is going to ride that horse. The horse, on his part, can sense New Owner’s fear which of course scares him (Horses are not capable of perceiving that they are what’s scaring you. Horses feel your fear and perceive that perhaps there is a mountain lion nearby which you have seen and they have not so it might be a good idea to freak out and/or run like hell to get away from it). The behavior gets worse and worse until New Owner, quite predictably, gets dumped and gets injured possibly seriously. 6. New Owner, from his hospital bed, writes vitriolic posts all over Facebook about the sleazy folks who sold him a horse that was not beginner safe and lied about it and probably drugged it. Old Owner fights back, pointing out that his 6 year old kid showed the horse and was fine. Everybody else makes popcorn and watches the drama unfold. Bonus points if everybody lawyers up. Meanwhile, the poor horse gets sent to slaughter by New Owner’s angry spouse. I’m not even making any of that up, although I did combine elements of different situations to protect the guilty. It’s a scenario that gets played out time and time again. So now, let’s look at a constructive direction to go with this: How do I keep my beginner safe horse beginner safe? Here’s your answer: 1. The vast majority of calories should come from forage (grass, hay or hay pellets) 2. Never ever let him sit in a stall for 24 hours. Think about it would you like to be locked in your bathroom for 24 hours? It’s just not fair. If you can’t get the barn you’re at to turn your horse out, you need to make arrangements to have him ridden or ponied daily. Yes, you may have to pay for that. The ideal is pasture life but I know it’s just not an option everywhere. Just do the best you can and be fair to the horse. 3. Beginner horses should be tuned up by a competent, experienced rider at least twice a month, if not more often. Lesson barns know that they have to have their advanced students, or the trainer, ride the school horses periodically in order to fix beginner-created habits like stopping at the gate, refusing to take a canter lead, and cutting the corners of the arenas. Learn from this. 4. A bigger bit in beginner hands solves nothing and creates a variety of dangerous behaviors. Avoid any solution that involves a thinner bit, a bit with a twisted mouth, or one with longer shanks/more leverage. 5. Learn the difference between abuse and discipline. None of us wants to be the idiot beating his horse but that doesn’t mean discipline is always wrong. If your horse’s ground manners are melting down and he does not do things he used to do (like picking up feet, getting into the horse trailer, bridling) or has started doing things he didn’t used to do (like kicking at you, biting, trying to smush you against the wall in the stall), please get help from a competent trainer. It may be that your body language is all wrong, but it also may be that you’ve established yourself as, well, a doormat and need to learn when it is appropriate to re-establish yourself as the boss. This involves a lot of timing, correct body language and feel none of which you can learn from your friends on Facebook or a training video. You need an actual trainer or other very experienced horseperson to work with you, hands-on and in-person. 6. TAKE LESSONS. Truer words were never spoken! Truer words were never spoken! The better you ride, the better horses will behave for you. 7. Call the vet and make sure the horse is not simply trying to tell you he has a pain issue. Horses can’t exactly text you and say hey, dude, my back hurts. They will simply resort to things like biting you when you tighten the girth or bucking when asked to canter in a desperate attempt to convey the message. 8. If you’ve changed a lot about the horse’s lifestyle, try to change it back and see if that fixes the problem. Find a barn where the horse can be pasture boarded, for example, instead of stall kept. If you started feeding a lot of grain, replace it with hay pellets. 9. Don’t keep a horse you are terrified of. If the behaviors are truly scary or you’re hitting the dirt regularly the horse is just not for you. You’re not in the running for the PRCA bronc riding and no one cares if you look cool or not. It’s probably more important to remain uninjured and able to, like, work and pay your mortgage, right? Turn the horse that is way too much for you over to a competent trainer to sell. Yes, this may cost you some money up front but it’s the right thing to do and once he’s sold, you are free to buy a more appropriate horse. 10. Increase your odds of not having these problems in the first place by (a) buying a horse who is regularly ridden by beginners, like a lesson horse; and (b) buying a horse that is a lot older than the one you think you need (we play polo on plenty of horses in their early 20’s, so don’t think a horse of that age can’t possibly hold up for your easy trail rides and beginner lessons), and bear in mind that appearance should be your LAST concern when shopping for a beginner horse. But he’s so PRETTY! And they’ll let me make payments! Keep in mind that a lot of sellers don’t know how a horse will behave with a beginner because they simply have not ever had a beginner ride the horse long-term. So they weren’t maliciously trying to mislead you they didn’t know. The world is absolutely packed full of horses that ride beautifully for experienced riders and turn into utter broncs within 2 weeks of being ridden by beginners who bounce on their backs or have inconsistent hands. Some horses are not very tolerant! Call the seller! Have them come out and ride the horse to see if they can figure out what’s going on. Many sellers will take a horse back or help you sell it give them a chance, don’t assume every seller is a sleazy used-horse salesman who has taken your cash and run with it and couldn’t care less what happens to the horse. (Yes, some are but like I say, give them a chance). And remember, if you want to buy a horse that will act the same every single ride and never act up with anybody, you can buy them on E-bay! Reposted from Poloponyrescue

06.01.2022 MPH Lazy On Sunday We have decided to sell our beautiful colored yearling filly by WC and WC producing sire Lopin Lazy from Diamonds Are Forever! I love her s...o much and she’s perfect in every way. Going to make a great non pro, youth or futurity horse. She is now reduced at $7,000 INC GST!!! See more

04.01.2022 Halli’s (VitalSignsRBlazing) most famous offspring, the one and only RAD!

03.01.2022 Boujee VitaSignsRBlazing X Smoochin

01.01.2022 Knocking another $500 off these guys! They gotta go!